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Edward Peak (Lyell II)

Summit Elevation (m): 3514
Elevation Gain (m): 1350 from hut, 3200+ from Valenciennes FSR
Round Trip Time (hr): 9 from hut
Total Trip Distance (km): 14 from hut
Quick ‘n Dirty Rating: Class 3 – you fall, you break something
Difficulty Notes: Remote mountain bush roads, indistinct and exposed trail and glacier travel in very remote terrain.
Technical Rating: MN7; YDS (II)
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Next to Ernest Peak, Edward (Lyell II) was pretty darn tame. Other than the fact that the height gains and distances were starting to add up and the day was getting long, there were absolutely no difficulties getting to the summit of the purported, but debatable of the highest of the Lyells.

Ernest Edward & Rudolph Route Map from the Lyell Hut

The views were not much less spectacular than from Ernest Peak but we didn’t linger too long at the top. We still had Rudolph (Lyell I) to do, not to forget the long trudge back to the Lyell Hut and the shadows were definitely lengthening.


Interesting Facts on Edward Peak

Named by Sydney R. Vallance in 1972. Feuz, Edward sr. (Edward Feuz was an early guide in the Rockies and Selkirks.(see biog.) Official name. Other names One of five peaks on Mount Lyell. First ascended in 1902 by James Outram, guided by Christian Kaufmann.


Ernest Peak looks incredible from Edward – note our tracks up the east ridge. I hate to say it but Ernest certainly looks higher at its far end in this view from the summit of Edward Peak.
An immense panorama looking north (l) and east (r) including King Edward, Columbia, South Twin, North Twin, Alberta, Castleguard, Snow Dome, Andromeda, Terrace, Athabasca, Brazeau, Saskatchewan and Cirrus Mountain (L to R).

I am of the opinion that Ernest Peak is either higher or the same height as Edward. Both of these peaks have amazing views – you really don’t want to summit in a whiteout if you have a choice. I would highly recommend doing both peaks since they’re so close together anyway. Do Ernest, as the tougher one, first and then enjoy a leisurely stroll over the next two. Bagging these three 11,000ers together is a no-brainer after the immense work and planning that goes into getting yourself all the way the heck out here. 

Edward Peak (Lyell II)
We start the easy trudge up Edward Peak on pretty mushy snow.
We start the easy trudge up Edward Peak on pretty mushy snow.
Looking back over our tracks up Ernest Peak at right with Christian and Walter at center.
Looking back over our tracks up Ernest Peak at right with Christian and Walter at center.
Looking back over our tracks up Ernest Peak at right with Christian and Walter at center.
Looking back over our tracks up Ernest Peak at right with Christian and Walter at center.
Doing a switchback to ease the pain a bit.
Doing a switchback to ease the pain a bit.
Mount Forbes, Mons Peak, Christian, Rostrum, Walter, Kinbasket Lake, Ernest Peak, Oppy, Alexandra, Bryce, Columbia, Terrace, Snow Dome
Mount Forbes, Mons Peak, Christian, Rostrum, Walter, Kinbasket Lake, Ernest Peak, Oppy, Alexandra, Bryce, Columbia, Terrace, Snow Dome
An amazing late evening panorama looking down the main Lyell Icefield towards Mount Forbes (L) and the Mons Icefield at right.
An amazing late evening panorama looking down the main Lyell Icefield towards Mount Forbes (L) and the Mons Icefield at right.
Ernest Peak looks incredible from Edward - note our tracks up the east ridge.
Ernest Peak looks incredible from Edward - note our tracks up the east ridge.
King Edward, Columbia, South Twin, North Twin, Alberta, Castleguard, Snow Dome, Andromeda, Terrace, Athabasca, Brazeau, Saskatchewan and Cirrus
King Edward, Columbia, South Twin, North Twin, Alberta, Castleguard, Snow Dome, Andromeda, Terrace, Athabasca, Brazeau, Saskatchewan and Cirrus
I love the deep greens on the ridge separating the headwaters of the Alexandra River at bottom left of the ridge and the Castleguard River at center to the right of it.
I love the deep greens on the ridge separating the headwaters of the Alexandra River at bottom left of the ridge and the Castleguard River at center to the right of it.
Farbus in the foreground with Oppy. Alexandra at center with Tsar, Clemenceau and Bryce at distant background.
Farbus in the foreground with Oppy. Alexandra at center with Tsar, Clemenceau and Bryce at distant background.
Looking east over Rudolph Peak - our next destination - with peaks from Saskatchewan to Amery to Forbes in the distance.
Looking east over Rudolph Peak - our next destination - with peaks from Saskatchewan to Amery to Forbes in the distance.
The entire main Lyell Icefield stretches out towards the Forbes and Mons Glaciers and summits. Arctomys at mid left
The entire main Lyell Icefield stretches out towards the Forbes and Mons Glaciers and summits. Arctomys at mid left
Mount Forbes with Outram at left and Hector visible at center distance.
Mount Forbes with Outram at left and Hector visible at center distance.
Looking towards the line of Sarbach, Kaufmann, Epaulette, White Pyramid, Chephren and Howse.
Looking towards the line of Sarbach, Kaufmann, Epaulette, White Pyramid, Chephren and Howse.
Cline and Wilson show up across a hidden hwy #93 to the east.
Cline and Wilson show up across a hidden hwy #93 to the east.
Mount Saskatchewan is a near-11,000er at foreground center with Mount Brazeau, Mount Poboktan, Cirrus and Stewart showing up at distance.
Mount Saskatchewan is a near-11,000er at foreground center with Mount Brazeau, Mount Poboktan, Cirrus and Stewart showing up at distance.
Looking through the Walter / Ernest col towards Kinbasket Lake.
Looking through the Walter / Ernest col towards Kinbasket Lake.

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