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Cromwell, Mount

Summit Elevation (m): 3342
Trip Date: May 8 2015
Elevation Gain (m): 2500 (from parking lot)
Round Trip Time (hr): 10 (from high camp)
Total Trip Distance (km): 48 (from parking lot)
Quick ‘n Dirty Rating: Class 2 – you fall, you sprain something
Difficulty Notes: Glacier travel in an extremely remote location and some avalanche risk to the Cromwell / Stutfield NE2 col make this a peak to be taken seriously. No technical difficulties to the summit – beware the cornice!
Technical Rating: MN7; YDS (I)
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The winter of 2015 was an interesting one in the Rockies. Many ski resorts had to close early, thanks to low snow and temperatures that soared above normal. Calgary didn’t even seem to get winter at all! In a strange twist, however, we started to notice that the glaciers and mountains along the Divide had plenty of coverage – even though valley bottoms were completely melting out. I’m still not sure what caused this, but one theory is that the snow that fell, stuck – more like a coastal snow pack than a regular Rockies ‘crap’ pack. Whatever the case, when Ben, Steven and I traveled up the Athabasca Glacier and to the summit of Mount Columbia in late April we were delighted to discover great coverage and a fully formed ramp to the main glacier. When schedules lined up and the weather started to look good for the second weekend in May, we made plans for another trip to the northern peaks of the Columbia Icefield.

The Northern Columbia Icefield – Routes up South Twin and Cromwell.

When the dust settled it was four of us doing the trip in 2015. Kevin Barton was joining the ‘regular’ group of Ben Nearingburg, Steven Song and myself. Of course Ben and Steven were planning to bag ALL of the peaks in the area and even hoping to finish off the Columbia Icefield peaks completely with an ascent of Mount Kitchener on our exit! I only had two peaks left to chase on this trip, Mount Cromwell and South Twin Peak. Kevin had almost all of them to do, having only done West Twin two years previous with me and a bunch of our friends.

Leaving the toe of the Athabasca Glacier in perfect weather. Skyladder on Andromeda is lighting up on the left.

Kevin and I slept in the Rampart Creek Hostel on Wednesday night and met Steven and Ben in the parking lot at the Icefields just after 05:00 on Thursday morning. (Another group from the Calgary Scrambling and Mountaineering Club – CSMC were slightly behind us and attempting the exact same peaks we were.) Thanks to a full moon and early sunrise we didn’t even need our head lamps as we walked to the toe of the Athabasca and started skinning up to the first ice fall. There was even more coverage than 3 weeks previous and we skinned up the ice fall and the ramp, following another group that was heading into Mount Columbia. We were hoping for a skin track turning north to our destination but alas, there was only a blank white canvas going up the slight draw around the flank of Snow Dome where we had to go… Oh well! Let the games begin… Steven led the long trudge around Snow Dome and eventually down and up onto the long series of humps to North Twin. The sun was HOT and the snow started to stick badly to Steven and Kev’s skins. Nobody had skin wax so this became a major issue. The CSMC group stayed behind us, so we didn’t get the advantage of shared trail breaking either. We doggedly pushed on until the weather started closing in from the north. We were expecting this and started thinking about stopping to set up camp. The CSMC group finally caught up and passed us but they soon discovered that leading in the ankle to boot-top deep fresh, sticky snow was not much fun and within 20 minutes we passed them again. 🙂 Unless you’ve made this trek on skis to the northern end of the Columbia Icefield before, especially in warm weather or bad conditions, you will always underestimate the amount of effort it takes. Rob (leader of the CSMC group) and I both only needed South Twin and Cromwell and we both agreed that making a camp near North Twin was paramount for success. We also both agreed that it was easier said than done to make this far camp.

The same ramp we used to avoid the first steep roll on the first ice fall for our Columbia trip, now had much more snow on it.
Working our way up the steep (but wide!) ramp to the main icefield.
Now we’ve gained some serious height and are working our way around Snow Dome.
Trudging our way across the endless ocean of white. The Twins are at least visible now but still hours and hours of skiing before we get to camp.

Steven really wanted to push another 2km closer to North Twin, but Ben and I were sick of the heavy packs (I was loving how I spent hundreds of dollars getting my gear as light as possible and then carried the extra 60m rope… LOL) and leery of setting up a good winter camp in the rapidly changing weather. The CSMC group was already stopped about 300m behind us when we finally took off our heavy approach packs and set up camp in rapidly deteriorating weather. We ended up cooking and eating in the mids thanks to heavy snow and a gusty wind. In the late afternoon and early evening it snowed very heavily along with pretty strong winds that lasted all night. It always seems to be windy up on the ice fields, but considering we were camped higher than the summit of Castleguard at over 3200 meters, this should not be a surprise!

A gorgeous sunset from camp, hiding the fact that we’ve just spent hours huddled in our mids in a gale force wind with snow falling like rain!

I slept like a log after the exhausting approach and when I awoke to the sound of snow and wind on the mid at around 05:30 I turned over in my sleeping bag and dozed off for another hour or so before finally getting up and checking out the conditions. The sun was up and other than a very stiff wind, the weather was looking perfect for an attempt of the Stutfields and Mount Cromwell. We forced down some breakfast in the frosty air and skinned towards the Stutfield Peaks on fresh snow that went at least ankle deep – but at least nobody’s skins were sticking to the snow in the cool morning air. I’d already skied both Stutfield and Stutfield NE but to get to Cromwell, you pretty much have to summit the main Stutfield Peak anyway, so I was going to repeat that one whether I wanted to or not. 😉

Making our way to the Stutfield col from camp. It still took an hour, even though we were relatively ‘close’.

Steven led up the steep lower roll on Stutfield and we trudged our way slowly but surely to the summit bump. We actually summitted a smaller bump to the north which gave us great views into the black hole and towards Mount Alberta and Woolley / Diadem. After a brief summit stay it was time to push on. Cromwell might look close, but we knew that it had taken Raf’s party a long day to bag it back in 2013 and we were counting on the same.

The steep roll to gain Stutfield Peak is an avalanche hazard.
Summit pano from Stutfield Peak looking towards Columbia, South Twin, North Twin, Twins Tower, Clemenceau and Mount Alberta (R).

I knew where to descend Stutfield to avoid the crevasses on its east flank (head down on the south end) and soon we were trudging along the valley between the Stutfield peaks, heading north to Cromwell. The route was obvious and the views of Stutfield from the east were impressive. Mount Alberta and Engelhard also came into view. Eventually we had a choice to make. We could traverse a snowy avalanche slope across a large alpine bowl on the west face of Stutfield NE before descending it’s north ridge to the Cromwell / Stutfield NE col, or we could go down the bowl (crevasses and avy terrain) and then ascend to the col. Raf’s team was forced to descend the bowl due to conditions, but we had way more snow than they did and ended up traversing the west face of Stutfield NE before skiing down to the col where we gazed up at Cromwell’s south ridge / face and wondered if we could ski the whole thing!

Mount Clemenceau.
It looks so close… But consider the height loss! Cromwell is lower than us at center photo.
Still skiing between the Stutfield Peaks – Cromwell directly ahead now and finally higher than us again.
The steep avy traverse to the Cromwell / Stutfield NE col is obvious and has holes along it too. The other option is descending beneath the col and then climbing back up to it – but you’re still exposed to avy slopes and there’s even more crevasses on that route. Trust me – the terrain is much bigger and steeper than this photo implies.

Ben and I decided it was worth skiing, so we skinned up the lower south ridge before taking the skis off and humping them up a narrow section just under the upper face. We switched leads up the south face until we got close to the summit. From here I took out my avy probe to make sure we didn’t trespass too close to the edge. The views were awesome from the top. We could see the tiny bump of Little Alberta beneath us and the surrounding 11,000ers including Alberta, Stutfield, Stutfield NE, Woolley and Diadem. We could also see the tiny dots that were the CSMC group, faithfully taking advantage of our tracks once again – not that I blame them! I certainly would have followed their tracks if they got up earlier and led the way up Cromwell, or South Twin for that matter. Interestingly, several devices only measured the summit of Cromwell at around 3340m – so not quite an 11,000er (50 feet short) and not as close as other peaks that I’ve measured that are known to be close. Due to variation in devices it is extremely close, so who really knows? Raf measured it at 3351m with a very similar device in 2013.

A bit more scale for you. Kev follows up the south ridge of Cromwell with the Stutfields behind him. Mount Alberta on the right.
 
Incredible views down Habel Creek past Mount Alberta on the right.
Tele of the CSMC group following our tracks down Stutfield Peak on their way to Cromwell.
I love Dias Mountain and want to climb it some day.

While Kev and Steven plunge-stepped the south face of Cromwell, Ben and I enjoyed the fast ski down it. I managed to ski down the entire south ridge to the col. It was fast and fun. I’m not sure how many people get to ski this slope, as it’s often wind blasted and covered in sharp scree. My skis took a core shot on this slope, thanks to the shallow snowpack in spots. After greeting the CSMC group, I took off from our group, following our tracks back over Stutfield and to camp while the other three guys bagged Stutfield NE and joined me at camp 2 hours later.

As I set a track up Stutfield I glanced back at the boys ascending Stutfield NE. The CSMC group is tiny on top of Cromwell.
Everyone at camp, drying out gear and prepping for a big day on the Twins.
Tele shot of the other camp and a tiny Castleguard with Forbes and the Lyells looming over in the far distance.
Mount Bryce catches the last of the days sunlight.

I really enjoyed Cromwell. I think it deserves more attention than it gets, but honestly I can see why it’s not popular. It’s literally the furthest summit from the Athabasca parking lot and when compared with its neighbors it’s the “baby of the bunch”. Without enough snow to ski it, I’m not sure anyone other than obsessive peak baggers would find it necessary to slog all the way to it’s summit, unless you take one of the 5.7 routes up more challenging lines.

Mount Cromwell
Morning dawns clear and COLD at our camp.
Morning dawns clear and COLD at our camp.
Skinning towards the Stutfield Col.
Skinning towards the Stutfield Col.
Tele shot of Cromwell peeking from between the Stutfields.
Tele shot of Cromwell peeking from between the Stutfields.
Making our way to the Stutfield col from camp. It still took an hour, even though we were relatively 'close'.
Making our way to the Stutfield col from camp. It still took an hour, even though we were relatively 'close'.
Twins Tower is impressive from the Stutfield col.
Twins Tower is impressive from the Stutfield col.
The steep roll to gain Stutfield Peak is an avalanche hazard.
The steep roll to gain Stutfield Peak is an avalanche hazard.
Looking back at Kev with South Twin, North Twin and Twins Tower from L to R.
Looking back at Kev with South Twin, North Twin and Twins Tower from L to R.
Kev on Stutfield Peak.
Kev on Stutfield Peak.
Twins Tower.
Twins Tower.
Monkhead, Warren, Brazeau and Valad (L to R).
Monkhead, Warren, Brazeau and Valad (L to R).
Summit pano from Stutfield Peak looking west, north and east.
Summit pano from Stutfield Peak looking west, north and east.
Mount Columbia.
Mount Columbia.
Mount Clemenceau.
Mount Clemenceau.
Skiing towards the east face of Stutfield. Cromwell is visible on the L with Stutfield NE directly in front of us.
Skiing towards the east face of Stutfield. Cromwell is visible on the L with Stutfield NE directly in front of us.
It looks so close... But consider the height loss!
It looks so close... But consider the height loss!
Looking at Kitchener (R) and the hwy 93 corridor where I'm sure the tourists are in shorts and t-shirts.
Looking at Kitchener (R) and the hwy 93 corridor where I'm sure the tourists are in shorts and t-shirts.
Still skiing between the Stuts - Cromwell directly ahead now.
Still skiing between the Stuts - Cromwell directly ahead now.
Thorington Tower is cool.
Thorington Tower is cool.
The steep avy traverse to the Cromwell / Stutfield NE col is obvious and has holes along it too.
The steep avy traverse to the Cromwell / Stutfield NE col is obvious and has holes along it too.
Engelhard.
Engelhard.
Starting up the south ridge of Cromwell.
Starting up the south ridge of Cromwell.
A bit more scale for you. Kev follows up the south ridge of Cromwell with the Stutfields behind him. Mount Alberta on the right.
A bit more scale for you. Kev follows up the south ridge of Cromwell with the Stutfields behind him. Mount Alberta on the right.
Bootpacking the south ridge.
Bootpacking the south ridge.
Another shot of Kev coming up the south ridge behind me. Habel Creek is far below.
Another shot of Kev coming up the south ridge behind me. Habel Creek is far below.
I love this view of the Stutfields!
I love this view of the Stutfields!
Tele of the CSMC group following our tracks down Stutfield Peak on their way to Cromwell.
Tele of the CSMC group following our tracks down Stutfield Peak on their way to Cromwell.
Woolley (L) and Diadem (R) from the summit of Cromwell.
Woolley (L) and Diadem (R) from the summit of Cromwell.
Son of a Twin is a spectacular peak that I'm sure I'll never climb!
Son of a Twin is a spectacular peak that I'm sure I'll never climb!
Looking down Habel Creek.
Looking down Habel Creek.
A distant view of Mount Athabasca.
A distant view of Mount Athabasca.
Looking back at Ben and Kev descending from Crowell's summit.
Looking back at Ben and Kev descending from Crowell's summit.
Steven descends the ridge beside me, while I ski it.
Steven descends the ridge beside me, while I ski it.
Our approach tracks from Stutfield - you can barely spot the CSMC group at the col.
Our approach tracks from Stutfield - you can barely spot the CSMC group at the col.
The CSMC group takes their turn on the south ridge of Cromwell.
The CSMC group takes their turn on the south ridge of Cromwell.
Mighty (loose!) Mount Alberta.
Mighty (loose!) Mount Alberta.
I love Dias Mountain and want to climb it some day.
I love Dias Mountain and want to climb it some day.
The boys ski up Stutfield NE behind me.
The boys ski up Stutfield NE behind me.
Looking back as the boys follow me back up to Stutfield NE.
Looking back as the boys follow me back up to Stutfield NE.
Stutfield is impressive from this angle as I slowly follow our tracks back up over 11,000 feet.
Stutfield is impressive from this angle as I slowly follow our tracks back up over 11,000 feet.
Following the skin track back up Stutfield on my solo ski back to camp.
Following the skin track back up Stutfield on my solo ski back to camp.
As I set a track up Stutfield I glanced back at the boys ascending Stutfield NE. The CSMC group is tiny on top of Cromwell.
As I set a track up Stutfield I glanced back at the boys ascending Stutfield NE. The CSMC group is tiny on top of Cromwell.
Back on Stutfield, ready for the ski down and then another ski UP to camp! Damn. This is a long day... ;)
Back on Stutfield, ready for the ski down and then another ski UP to camp! Damn. This is a long day... 😉
Everyone at camp, drying out gear and prepping for a big day on the Twins.
Everyone at camp, drying out gear and prepping for a big day on the Twins.
Digging in a good trench / snow wall at camp.
Digging in a good trench / snow wall at camp.
It gets cold when the sun sets.
It gets cold when the sun sets.
Evening lighting on the Columbia Icefield.
Evening lighting on the Columbia Icefield.
Tele shot of the other camp and a tiny Castleguard with Forbes and the Lyells looming over in the far distance.
Tele shot of the other camp and a tiny Castleguard with Forbes and the Lyells looming over in the far distance.
Mount Bryce at sunset.
Mount Bryce at sunset.

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