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Utopia Mountain

Summit Elevation (m): 2602
Elevation Gain (m): 1400
Round Trip Time (hr): 5.5
Total Trip Distance (km): 11
Quick ‘n Dirty Rating: Class 3/4 – you fall, you break something badly or worse
Difficulty Notes: A fall on the crux would severely injure or kill so take necessary precautions.
Technical Rating: SC7; YDS (4th)
GPS Track: Download
Map: Google Maps


After bagging both Pyramid and Cinquefoil mountains the previous day, So and I were ready to help me close out my “Kane” Jasper scrambles with an ascent of Utopia Mountain. It turns out that I left the best for last. After packing up our campsite at 05:00 we started to feel rain drops. Uh oh. Was I going to have to drive a round trip of 10 hours from Calgary just to get my last Kane scramble in Jasper? It turns out we got very lucky (again) with the weather. By the time we started our hike the sky was clearing and there was no more rain for the remainder of our scramble.

Utopia Mountain Route Map

As others have pointed out, this scramble unfolds exactly how the guidebook says it will. The only thing different is that the trail on climbers left of the creek is more than just a “smattering” but is rather, a continuous ribbon of trail complete with cairns and (green) flagging where appropriate. Also, if you stick to the trail you will end up going up the correct drainage because that’s exactly where it takes a very steep but unmistakable turn left, up the mountain. So that’s handy.

This old hotel / pool complex was decommissioned in 1988. It looks a lot older than that!

We negotiated the obvious break onto the first ridge and then proceeded towards the second. We didn’t like the looks of the endless scree slog around the second ridge (crux) so we went straight up it instead – as Kane describes. This proved to be a very good choice! The second ridge is fun hands-on scrambling. Neither So nor I found it very difficult, more on the “moderate” side of difficult if anything. The one tricky move wasn’t that bad and the exposure wasn’t any worse (we felt) than the little bit you’ll experience near the summit.

Mount O’Hagan at left with Sulphur Creek joining Fiddle Creek at mid right. The Fiddle Range rising over Ashlar Ridge at right.

The little bit of snow on our route had prompted us to take our alpine axes but we didn’t need them. The stretch between the false and true summit was almost as tricky as the second ridge – not bad but don’t trip or slip here! We were the first party to sign the register for 2010, someone else was up there though – we could see tracks in the snow, and not many parties seem to make this summit considering how close it is to a national park monument (Miette Hot Springs).

Another gorgeous day in Jasper.
The final section of ridge to the true summit looks harder than it is.

The views from the summit did not disappoint. They were incredible, even with some cloud cover lurking. The prairies to the east and the giants of Jasper to the west contrasted with the deep blue sky, white puffy clouds and green valleys with sparkling lakes to remind me what I love so much about Jasper. Just because I don’t have any more Kane scrambles to do, doesn’t mean I won’t be back. There’s tons of great hikes, backpacking trips and mountaineering adventures to keep a person busy in Jasper for the rest of their life.

The final section of ridge to the true summit (L) looks harder than it is.
Mount Edith Cavell at center.
A myriad of Jasper peaks including Overturn, Merlin, Roche Jacques, Cinquefoil, O’Hagan and Capital.

For our descent we backtracked to the col between the second ridge and the scree slog to the third ridge. From there we tried our best to scree surf on the thick scree, following the obvious trail down. It kind of worked. We lost height very quickly and traversed out skier’s left on green slopes to a rushing stream. We followed this back to the ascent valley and found the ascent trail. Some gorgeous waterfalls kept us distracted before hooking up with the trail at the steep gully, which we followed back to the Utopia Pass trail.

So descends the summit ridge.

Did I mention how much I love Jasper? Oh yeah. I’ll be back.

Utopia Mountain
This old hotel / pool complex was decommissioned in 1988. It looks a lot older than that!
This old hotel / pool complex was decommissioned in 1988. It looks a lot older than that!
This old hotel / pool complex was decommissioned in 1988. It looks a lot older than that!
This old hotel / pool complex was decommissioned in 1988. It looks a lot older than that!
A nice paved path to start with. Utopia looming in the background.
A nice paved path to start with. Utopia looming in the background.
A bit of a bushwhack after leaving the stream.
A bit of a bushwhack after leaving the stream.
A bit of a bushwhack after leaving the stream.
A bit of a bushwhack after leaving the stream.
A ribbon shows the way as we break tree line.
A ribbon shows the way as we break tree line.
So starts up the break to the first ridge. There are some cairns here and different route possibilities from moderate to difficult
So starts up the break to the first ridge. There are some cairns here and different route possibilities from moderate to difficult
So ascends the first ridge.
So ascends the first ridge.
Mount O'Hagan to the west of Utopia.
Mount O'Hagan to the west of Utopia.
Looking ahead to the crux on the second ridge. You can see the crux bypass to climbers right, in the scree at the center of the photograph.
Looking ahead to the crux on the second ridge. You can see the crux bypass to climbers right, in the scree at the center of the photograph.
Mount O'Hagan.
Mount O'Hagan.
So starts up the crux.
So starts up the crux.
Fun, hands-on scrambling.
Fun, hands-on scrambling.
Fun, hands-on scrambling.
Fun, hands-on scrambling.
Fun, hands-on scrambling.
Fun, hands-on scrambling.
Another fantastic day in Jasper.
Another fantastic day in Jasper.
More fun on the ridge.
More fun on the ridge.
Looking back down Sulphur Creek and our approach.
Looking back down Sulphur Creek and our approach.
Mount O'Hagan features prominently all day.
Mount O'Hagan features prominently all day.
Looking back east, Sulphur Creek and Fiddle River run past the Fiddle and Ashlar Ranges.
Looking back east, Sulphur Creek and Fiddle River run past the Fiddle and Ashlar Ranges.
The Bedson and Boule Ranges lie far to the north over the Athabasca River.
The Bedson and Boule Ranges lie far to the north over the Athabasca River.
Off the fun part, now back to scree bashing up to the third and final ridge.
Off the fun part, now back to scree bashing up to the third and final ridge.
We find some snow to make our ascent a bit less tedious up the rubble slopes.
We find some snow to make our ascent a bit less tedious up the rubble slopes.
Ahhhh. A gorgeous morning! The crux ascent ridge is highlighted by sunlight in the lower part of this photo
Ahhhh. A gorgeous morning! The crux ascent ridge is highlighted by sunlight in the lower part of this photo
So, with the false summit on the right and the true summit in the center background.
So, with the false summit on the right and the true summit in the center background.
The final section of ridge to the true summit looks harder than it is.
The final section of ridge to the true summit looks harder than it is.
Traversing to the true summit.
Traversing to the true summit.
Traversing to the true summit.
Traversing to the true summit.
A myriad of Jasper peaks including Overturn, Merlin, Roche Jacques, Cinquefoil, O'Hagan and Capital.
A myriad of Jasper peaks including Overturn, Merlin, Roche Jacques, Cinquefoil, O'Hagan and Capital.
More views to the south west towards Colin and Hawk Mountain.
More views to the south west towards Colin and Hawk Mountain.
Edith Cavell at center.
Edith Cavell at center.
Looking over Cinquefoil Mountain.
Looking over Cinquefoil Mountain.
Looking north to Bedson Ridge with Boule Range to its immediate right.
Looking north to Bedson Ridge with Boule Range to its immediate right.
Summit view northwest to Mount O'Hagan and Capital at right and Greenock / De Smet at distant left.
Summit view northwest to Mount O'Hagan and Capital at right and Greenock / De Smet at distant left.
Vern and So on the summit of Utopia Mountain.
Vern and So on the summit of Utopia Mountain.
Charlton and Unwin with Warren at far left.
Charlton and Unwin with Warren at far left.
So descends the summit ridge crux.
So descends the summit ridge crux.
Descending from the summit.
Descending from the summit.
Descending the scree gully, the crux second ridge is on the right.
Descending the scree gully, the crux second ridge is on the right.
Using snow in the descent gully.
Using snow in the descent gully.
Nice views towards O'Hagan.
Nice views towards O'Hagan.
Exiting the alternate descent bowl.
Exiting the alternate descent bowl.
A gorgeous creek between O'Hagan and Utopia.
A gorgeous creek between O'Hagan and Utopia.
A gorgeous creek between O'Hagan and Utopia.
A gorgeous creek between O'Hagan and Utopia.
In the feeder canyon to the main ascent creek.
In the feeder canyon to the main ascent creek.
A gorgeous creek between O'Hagan and Utopia.
A gorgeous creek between O'Hagan and Utopia.
A gorgeous creek between O'Hagan and Utopia.
A gorgeous creek between O'Hagan and Utopia.
A gorgeous creek between O'Hagan and Utopia.
A gorgeous creek between O'Hagan and Utopia.
A gorgeous creek between O'Hagan and Utopia.
A gorgeous creek between O'Hagan and Utopia.
Utopia Mountain rises above Sulphur Creek on the way out.
Utopia Mountain rises above Sulphur Creek on the way out.

 

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