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Hector, Mount

Summit Elevation (m): 3404 
Trip Date: April 18 2020
Elevation Gain (m): 1550
Trip Time (hr): 6.5
Total Trip Distance (km): 14
Quick ‘n Dirty Rating: Class 4 – you fall, you almost die – unless you’re caught in an avalanche or fall into a crevasse in which case you could definitely die
Difficulty Notes: Winter ascent includes serious avalanche risks and glacier travel. Learn how to manage these risks and perform avalanche burial and crevasse rescues before attempting this trip.
Technical Rating: MN8; YDS (II)
Map: Google Maps


I waited 3 years to finally accomplish what TJ, Megan and I did on Saturday, April 18 2009 – summit Mount Hector. Truthfully, on hindsight, it’s for the best that it took me this long. The ski down was much more pleasurable now that I’m more comfortable skiing powder. I’m not nearly as good a skier as TJ or Megs but I can enjoy myself rather than just do the ‘survivor skiing’ thing. Last year we made an attempt at Hector but turned around just before the headwall due to isothermal snow and a burning desire to ski something more supportive. At the time we were bummed out because the next week we found out that if only we would have struggled up the headwall we would have probably had a great ski day on the glacier. Oh well.

Mount Hector Ski Route Map
Mount Hector Ski Route Map

This year, when TJ suggested that he wanted to get rid of his “Hectoritus” I completely agreed. All winter / spring so far we’d been waiting for an opportunity to come up. We needed to have partners available to climb with us, we needed good weather and decent snow conditions. It would also be nice to have warm temps and not too much wind. Yeah right! That’s exactly why it takes 3 years to get up this mountain! To get all those conditions on the right day (i.e. a Saturday) is like winning the lottery. But someone has to win eventually right? We met in the parking lot at 06:00 and started our drive to the trail head. All the way out through the mountains we were under an ‘interesting’ sky of clouds and recent rainfall. This did not bode well for our summit chances. I was putting our chances at around 40%. Normally the weather does not improve much through the day – especially in the spring with warmer temps bringing in moisture and especially on large peaks like Hector.


Interesting Facts on Mount Hector

Named by George M. Dawson in 1884. Hector, Sir James (Sir James Hector was one of the most important members of the Palliser Expedition, becoming the first to travel through much of the Canadian Rockies.) (see biog.) Official name. First ascended in 1895 by P.S. Abbot, C.E. Fay, C.S. Thompson Journal reference App 13-1,97 CAJ 14-9. Other reference Outram Page 278.


We had to laugh as we pulled up to the parking area near the Hector trail head. There must have been at least 10 vehicles already sitting there with more coming in! We had to park on the shoulder of the highway since the parking lot was chock-full already! TJ commented that Hector was probably the only mountain in the Rockies with anyone skiing on it. He was probably closer to the truth than he realized.

Starting up avy debris just below the Hector Creek headwall – looking back at our approach.

We quickly set off up the trail on the right side of the creek. The snow seemed very supportive and obviously the tracks were well-set with so much traffic going in already this day. Soon we were staring up at the avalanche debris that litters the slopes just before the headwall section. I sure wouldn’t want to be in this area after a recent dump of snow – it seems to slide all year long. We humped up the avi debris and took our skis off. The next 100-200 vertical meters was carrying the skis up some pretty steep terrain to break through the headwall. At one point we went straight up an easy-grade waterfall. A few more weeks and I don’t think the route will be viable anymore – it’ll either be pure ice or running water.

After breaking through the headwall we donned the skis and continued tramping up the highway that the preceding parties had so kindly lay down for us earlier in the day. Soon we began to spot some of the groups in front of us and realized just how many people were on Hector this fine spring day! It was a lot. We went up a lot closer to Little Hector than I would have expected. TJ kept asking if maybe the groups ahead were skiing Little Hector but I knew that this many people would not be interested in that pile of scree – especially not on skis.

Little Hector looks great from this angle.

All three of us were feeling great. The weather wasn’t deteriorating, as a matter of fact it seemed to be improving which was a big surprise. The sun was starting to kiss our faces and the snow pack was glued nice and tightly together. We were also starting to get a sense of the awesome decent that awaited us at the end of all our efforts. Soon we were catching up to the group ahead. As we grunted our way up the northeast slopes of Little Hector I was thinking how nasty this ascent would be in bad avi conditions. You really can’t avoid some of the terrain, either going across it or wandering beneath it. Make sure everything is locked up tight and that you know how to evaluate avi terrain before going on this trip. I guess this is why a lot of people wait till the spring for this one.

Skinning up steep snow above Hector Creek with Andromache at right and Bow Peak in the distance.

After passing our first group (6 self-described cougars – we’ll leave that story alone for now) we quickly caught up and passed another group. On my way past them I asked if TJ had continued on, since he was getting ahead of Megs and I. They laughed and said “Oh – that was TJ? He probably won’t stop till the summit!”. Obviously they knew TJ and as it turned out later this was a group that gets out to the mountains often. I’ve read a lot of their trip reports and experiences and it was cool to finally meet them.

The terrain is huge here! TJ heads up towards the toe of Hector Glacier.

As we worked our way higher and higher on the glacier we began to catch up to the final group of two skiers ahead of us. I saw TJ stop on a particularly steep roll, just before the last plateau under the summit block. As I got closer I realized he was pulling out the rope. When I caught up to him he remarked that the terrain just ahead “sounded hollow” so he was taking good precaution!

You can just barely make out the two French guys in front of us. On hindsight we probably should have the rope on here already.

Once Megan caught up we all roped together and gingerly made our way over the crevasse. Looking back at my summer pictures from the Hector glacier I now realize that the area we went over is very heavily crevassed and probably best avoided on climber’s right. Years later a friend of a friend would die after falling into a crevasse while skiing down this part of the glacier unroped. 🙁

This photo makes me cringe. We should *NOT* be going this way! And we should *DEFINITELY* have a rope on anywhere near this spot! People have died recently in this area while skiing down unroped. Please be careful and avoid climber’s left on this glacier.

Eventually we got up the steep summit headwall and prepared to ascend the main summit block. Quite a few people I know have been turned around at the summit block due to underestimating the terrain and finding out too late that some rock gear would’ve been nice to have. We didn’t have any gear other than the rope and a few slings because other people have called the summit block moves no more than moderate scrambling. We had to negotiate around a rock flake and then up a narrow chimney about 6-10 feet high that was choked with snow and ice, but not enough snow to make it easy. I found it exposed and awkward and so did Megs.

When TJ offered a hip belay for the way back down it, I gladly accepted the offer! Unless you are 100% sure of the conditions (i.e. bone dry or a ton of snow at the high col), I would bring some minimum gear for this spot (even just a long sling to put around the flake if nothing else). It’s a small weight to carry if you don’t need it, but what a disappointment if you get turned around after making it mere meters from the summit.

After negotiating the crux it was a steep snow ascent to the summit and 5 minutes later we were enjoying a beautiful (but windy) view. What a great feeling! I loved the fact that I finally got up Hector – I’ve wanted to for a long time and have oft wondered what standing on the lofty summit would be like. The summit on Hector is pretty small and with other groups coming up we decided not to linger too long at the top.

Skoki over the Pipestone River at left with the Bow River Valley running east and Lake Louise, Yoho at center. The Wapta over Hector Lake at right with the Murchison Range at far right.
Balfour (L), Hector Lake, Gordon, Olive, Crowfoot, Bow, Patterson, Cirque, Dolomite, Andromache, Willingdon, Dip Slope, Deluc, Molar, Cataract, McConnell, Drummond, Cyclone, Pipestone, Douglas and many more.

After the belay from TJ (he effortlessly negotiated the crux without a belay) we were ready for one of the best ski descents in the Rockies! Megs flew down way ahead of TJ and I. I had to stop a few times on the way down – it was a blast! The snow was pretty good overall with some crusting lower down. We quickly made our way down the lower headwall and skied all the way out along Hector Creek to the road.

Skiing down to the Hector Creek headwall.

Obviously Mount Hector is one of the most popular ski summits, not to mention 11000ers, along the Icefields Parkway. There is good reason for this popularity, but caution is warranted on both the approach and the glacier. People continue to die in crevasses and avalanches on this route so do not underestimate it just because it’s popular.

Mount Hector
74 photos
Following the crowd up Hector Creek.
Following the crowd up Hector Creek.
Starting up avy debris just below the headwall - looking back at our approach.
Starting up avy debris just below the headwall - looking back at our approach.
Negotiating through the avy debris is interesting, especially on icy snow early in the morning.
Negotiating through the avy debris is interesting, especially on icy snow early in the morning.
TJ carries his skis up the waterfall through the headwall.
TJ carries his skis up the waterfall through the headwall.
After carrying our skis up the headwall we were treated to some pretty great views back down our approach and across #93 towards Bow Peak.
After carrying our skis up the headwall we were treated to some pretty great views back down our approach and across #93 towards Bow Peak.
Skiing up under Little Hector.
Skiing up under Little Hector.
Skinning up under Little Hector.
Skinning up under Little Hector.
Skinning up under Little Hector.
Skinning up under Little Hector.
There is almost a traffic jam of skiers heading up beside Little Hector!
There is almost a traffic jam of skiers heading up beside Little Hector!
Serious avalanche terrain on our way up and around the north ridge of Little Hector. Andromache rising on the right.
Serious avalanche terrain on our way up and around the north ridge of Little Hector. Andromache rising on the right.
Little Hector looks great from this angle.
Little Hector looks great from this angle.
We start to pass other groups just before getting to the plateau on the NE side of Little Hector which can be seen here in the bg.
We start to pass other groups just before getting to the plateau on the NE side of Little Hector which can be seen here in the bg.
At the terminal moraine for the Hector Glacier, passing another group. Little Hector looming above us here.
At the terminal moraine for the Hector Glacier, passing another group. Little Hector looming above us here.
The terrain is huge here! TJ heads up towards the toe of Hector Glacier.
The terrain is huge here! TJ heads up towards the toe of Hector Glacier.
Looking back at other groups as we gain the toe of the glacier.
Looking back at other groups as we gain the toe of the glacier.
Passing yet another large group.
Passing yet another large group.
Great views east to Molar Mountain.
Great views east to Molar Mountain.
Skiing up the toe of Hector Glacier.
Skiing up the toe of Hector Glacier.
You can just barely make out the two French guys in front of us. On hindsight we probably should have the rope on here already.
You can just barely make out the two French guys in front of us. On hindsight we probably should have the rope on here already.
Skiing past a large crevasse on the Hector Glacier with the summit above and the two French guys clearly visible now.
Skiing past a large crevasse on the Hector Glacier with the summit above and the two French guys clearly visible now.
Looking east off the Hector Glacier towards Molar Mountain and Cataract Peak rising beyond in clouds
Looking east off the Hector Glacier towards Molar Mountain and Cataract Peak rising beyond in clouds
Skiing up the Hector Glacier.
Skiing up the Hector Glacier.
Meghan follows us up.
Meghan follows us up.
Should be heading right not left here!
Should be heading right not left here!
This photo makes me cringe. We should *NOT* be going this way! And we should *DEFINITELY* have a rope on anywhere near this spot!
This photo makes me cringe. We should *NOT* be going this way! And we should *DEFINITELY* have a rope on anywhere near this spot!
Looking over Andromache's east shoulder towards Willingdon, Crown, Tower and Harris.
Looking over Andromache's east shoulder towards Willingdon, Crown, Tower and Harris.
The rope is finally on as we gain the steep upper headwall under the summit block on Hector.
The rope is finally on as we gain the steep upper headwall under the summit block on Hector.
Skinning the upper Hector Glacier.
Skinning the upper Hector Glacier.
Skinning the upper Hector Glacier.
Skinning the upper Hector Glacier.
Skinning the upper Hector Glacier.
Skinning the upper Hector Glacier.
Skinning the upper Hector Glacier.
Skinning the upper Hector Glacier.
It's steep and cold up here! Note the wind howling off the ridge connecting Hector to Little Hector in the bg?
It's steep and cold up here! Note the wind howling off the ridge connecting Hector to Little Hector in the bg?
TJ leads up the steep headwall under the summit - Hector Lake just visible at lower right.
TJ leads up the steep headwall under the summit - Hector Lake just visible at lower right.
Views over Hector Lake.
Views over Hector Lake.
Skinning the upper Hector Glacier.
Skinning the upper Hector Glacier.
Short roping up the summit block.
Short roping up the summit block.
Short roping up the summit block.
Short roping up the summit block.
Glancing back at the hordes coming up behind us from just under the summit block crux.
Glancing back at the hordes coming up behind us from just under the summit block crux.
It's not the most difficult terrain, but IMHO not simply easy scrambling either.
It's not the most difficult terrain, but IMHO not simply easy scrambling either.
Megs and TJ on the summit of Mount Hector.
Megs and TJ on the summit of Mount Hector.
Looking over the false summit towards Cataract and McConnell.
Looking over the false summit towards Cataract and McConnell.
Looking north towards the Murchison Range.
Looking north towards the Murchison Range.
Looking west over the Waputik Mountains including Niles and Daly.
Looking west over the Waputik Mountains including Niles and Daly.
The Bow River Valley towards Lake Louise and Moraine Lake.
The Bow River Valley towards Lake Louise and Moraine Lake.
Looking over the Pipestone River towards Skoki.
Looking over the Pipestone River towards Skoki.
Summit panorama looking down hwy 93 with the Slate Range (Skoki) on the left and Waputik Range (Wapta) on the right.
Summit panorama looking down hwy 93 with the Slate Range (Skoki) on the left and Waputik Range (Wapta) on the right.
Looking over Hector Pass towards Molarstone, Dip Slope and Deluc Peak.
Looking over Hector Pass towards Molarstone, Dip Slope and Deluc Peak.
Goodsir Towers at right with Popes and Collier peaks in front of Victoria, partially hidden in cloud at left.
Goodsir Towers at right with Popes and Collier peaks in front of Victoria, partially hidden in cloud at left.
Victoria / Lefroy at right, Deltaform and Neptuak rising over Aberdeen / Haddo at center. Sheol at left.
Victoria / Lefroy at right, Deltaform and Neptuak rising over Aberdeen / Haddo at center. Sheol at left.
Skoki at left over the Pipestone River. Lake Louise, Yoho, Wapta to the right including Hector Lake.
Skoki at left over the Pipestone River. Lake Louise, Yoho, Wapta to the right including Hector Lake.
Vern finally stands on the summit of Mount Hector.
Vern finally stands on the summit of Mount Hector.
A great view down the Pipestone River Valley towards Mount Drummond and the Red Deer Lakes area. Skoki on the right.
A great view down the Pipestone River Valley towards Mount Drummond and the Red Deer Lakes area. Skoki on the right.
View over the Red Deer Lakes to Douglas past Cyclone and Pipestone on the left.
View over the Red Deer Lakes to Douglas past Cyclone and Pipestone on the left.
Tele shot towards Skoki with Douglas and St. Bride clearly visible on the left and Skoki, Oyster, Fossil peaks visible.
Tele shot towards Skoki with Douglas and St. Bride clearly visible on the left and Skoki, Oyster, Fossil peaks visible.
Molar Mountain looks small at foreground center with Cataract rising beyond.
Molar Mountain looks small at foreground center with Cataract rising beyond.
Descending the summit block on Hector.
Descending the summit block on Hector.
Descending the summit block on Hector.
Descending the summit block on Hector.
Descending the summit block on Hector.
Descending the summit block on Hector.
Balfour (L), Hector Lake, Gordon, Olive, Crowfoot, Bow, Patterson, Cirque, Dolomite,  Andromache +
Balfour (L), Hector Lake, Gordon, Olive, Crowfoot, Bow, Patterson, Cirque, Dolomite, Andromache +
Descending the summit block on Hector.
Descending the summit block on Hector.
Descending the summit block on Hector.
Descending the summit block on Hector.
Meghan skis down Hector - make sure you stay to skiers left!
Meghan skis down Hector - make sure you stay to skiers left!
For folks who don't like the exposed scrambling on the main summit, there is an easier consolation peak beside it that is much less technical.
For folks who don't like the exposed scrambling on the main summit, there is an easier consolation peak beside it that is much less technical.
Skiing down the Hector Glacier.
Skiing down the Hector Glacier.
Skiing down the Hector Glacier.
Skiing down the Hector Glacier.
Taking a nice coffee break just off the glacier.
Taking a nice coffee break just off the glacier.
Taking a nice coffee break just off the glacier.
Taking a nice coffee break just off the glacier.
Skiing down to the Hector Creek headwall.
Skiing down to the Hector Creek headwall.
Skiing down to the Hector Creek headwall.
Skiing down to the Hector Creek headwall.
Ready to drop down the Hector Creek headwall.
Ready to drop down the Hector Creek headwall.
Slipping and sliding down the waterfall through the lower headwall.
Slipping and sliding down the waterfall through the lower headwall.
Crossing an avy slide under the Hector Creek headwall.
Crossing an avy slide under the Hector Creek headwall.
The ski back down Hector Creek is always entertaining - especially with isothermal snow!
The ski back down Hector Creek is always entertaining - especially with isothermal snow!

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