logo

Weed, Mount

Summit Elevation (m): 3080
Trip Date: Saturday, June 3, 2006
Elevation Gain (m): 1300
Round Trip Time (hr): 8
Total Trip Distance (km): 8
Quick ‘n Dirty Rating: Class 3 – you fall, you break something
Difficulty Notes: Steep, loose gully to the summit can be problematic with snow, ice or large groups.
Technical Rating: SC6; YDS (3rd)
Map: Google Maps


On Saturday, June 3 2006, Raf, Jason, Wietse and I climbed Mount Weed along the Icefields Parkway. Even though Kane doesn’t recommend this peak until late July we felt that it would be doable in the current dry conditions. It didn’t hurt that Sonny climbed it three weeks earlier either.  Wietse and I were a little tired after a 23km and 1500+ meter outing to Mount Bourgeau the day before! I thought Wietse did excellent – considering this was only his 6th scramble.

Mount Weed Route Map

There is some route-finding on the lower mountain but if you stick to Kane’s instructions or get lucky and find a ‘trail’ you’ll be fine. The creek was pretty high when we went but it still dried out farther upstream and soon we were tramping up beside the two huge boulders mentioned in the guide.

Looking back at Peyto Lake with Caldron and Peyto Peak at right and Jimmy Simpson / Thompson at left.

From the boulders you still have a very long ascent. We headed up as much snow as possible until it got too soft and then we headed back onto the scree. The final gully was choked with softening snow so we followed Jason’s lead (and Kane’s suggestion) and started scrambling up the rock bands and loose scree on climber’s right. Wietse finally ran out of gas at the 10,000 foot level and waited for us as Raf, Jason and I tagged the summit.

The views were incredible but the wind was very cold and soon we were trying to glissade down the steep slopes. I mean ‘attempt’ because the snow was so soft we literally couldn’t help but sink in it half the time!

L to R, Patterson, Mummery, Breaker, Howse, White Pyramid, Chephren, Murchison, Noyes, Corona Ridge, Marmota, Loudon, Peskett, Quill and Perren.
A pano from just below the summit from Silverhorn and Observation (L) to Patterson (R) with peaks such as BowCrow, Crowfoot, Balfour, Thompson, Rhondda and Mistaya in between.

We  made good time on the descent and soon were back on dry ground and tramping back through the forest.

Mount Weed
57 photos
Mount Patterson provides an impressive view behind us as we ascend Weed. Wietse and I skied up Patterson 6 years after Wietse did his first scramble
Mount Patterson provides an impressive view behind us as we ascend Weed. Wietse and I skied up Patterson 6 years after Wietse did his first scramble
Looking down our approach route - pretty straight forward from the road.
Looking down our approach route - pretty straight forward from the road.
As you can see, even the lower gully is steep and loose already.
As you can see, even the lower gully is steep and loose already.
As you can see, even the lower gully is steep and loose already.
As you can see, even the lower gully is steep and loose already.
Looking down Peyto Lake at Jimmy Simpson and Mount Thompson.
Looking down Peyto Lake at Jimmy Simpson and Mount Thompson.
Impressive views already and we're not at tree line yet. Caldron at left. These are the boulders that Kane mentions.
Impressive views already and we're not at tree line yet. Caldron at left. These are the boulders that Kane mentions.
Looking down Peyto Lake at Jimmy Simpson and Mount Thompson.
Looking down Peyto Lake at Jimmy Simpson and Mount Thompson.
Great views back over the Icefields Parkway to Patterson.
Great views back over the Icefields Parkway to Patterson.
Great views back over the Icefields Parkway to Patterson.
Great views back over the Icefields Parkway to Patterson.
The Angel Glacier on Mount Patterson.
The Angel Glacier on Mount Patterson.
Looking back at Peyto Lake with Caldron Peak at right.
Looking back at Peyto Lake with Caldron Peak at right.
Still a long way to go after the boulders that Kane mentions - looking up our ascent gully.
Still a long way to go after the boulders that Kane mentions - looking up our ascent gully.
The views are incredible, especially in spring with all the snow.
The views are incredible, especially in spring with all the snow.
The views are incredible, especially in spring with all the snow.
The views are incredible, especially in spring with all the snow.
Ascending snow slopes.
Ascending snow slopes.
Wietse is doing great considering this is two days out in a row!
Wietse is doing great considering this is two days out in a row!
Peyto Lake.
Peyto Lake.
The snow was soft, which made step kicking a bit difficult, here JW leads.
The snow was soft, which made step kicking a bit difficult, here JW leads.
Kicking steps up the steep gully.
Kicking steps up the steep gully.
Views back to Patterson and Peyto Lake.
Views back to Patterson and Peyto Lake.
We bailed off the snow to rock when we could, since it was too soft.
We bailed off the snow to rock when we could, since it was too soft.
Excellent views back to Jimmy Simpson, Thompson and Peyto Lake with the Wapta icefield.
Excellent views back to Jimmy Simpson, Thompson and Peyto Lake with the Wapta icefield.
The gully steepens dramatically near the top, here the other guys prep for a steeper snow climb.
The gully steepens dramatically near the top, here the other guys prep for a steeper snow climb.
Looking off the steep snow slope near the summit.
Looking off the steep snow slope near the summit.
Raf and JW start up behind me while Wietse takes a breather.
Raf and JW start up behind me while Wietse takes a breather.
Back on loose scree near the summit.
Back on loose scree near the summit.
Raf checks out the incredible views as we near the summit.
Raf checks out the incredible views as we near the summit.
scree slope near the summit.
scree slope near the summit.
JW takes the final few steps to the summit of Mount Weed.
JW takes the final few steps to the summit of Mount Weed.
Raf is just behind me as we approach the summit.
Raf is just behind me as we approach the summit.
JW takes the final few steps to the summit of Mount Weed.
JW takes the final few steps to the summit of Mount Weed.
Views over Peyto Lake to Thompson, Habel, Caldron, Mistaya and Baker.
Views over Peyto Lake to Thompson, Habel, Caldron, Mistaya and Baker.
Looking down hwy 93 to Bow Lake with Crowfoot and BowCrow Mountain looming above.
Looking down hwy 93 to Bow Lake with Crowfoot and BowCrow Mountain looming above.
The king of the Wapta - Mount Balfour - towers well above Jimmy Simpson Junior.
The king of the Wapta - Mount Balfour - towers well above Jimmy Simpson Junior.
Vern on the summit of Mount Weed with Quill Peak in the bg.
Vern on the summit of Mount Weed with Quill Peak in the bg.
Starting our descent on steep snow.
Starting our descent on steep snow.
Views past Silverhorn (L) include Bow and Peyto Lake and the Wapta Icefield at right.
Views past Silverhorn (L) include Bow and Peyto Lake and the Wapta Icefield at right.
Mistaya and Patterson loom across hwy 93.
Mistaya and Patterson loom across hwy 93.
A pano from just below the summit from Silverhorn and Observation (L) to Patterson (R).
A pano from just below the summit from Silverhorn and Observation (L) to Patterson (R).
Silverhorn at right with Bobac, Watermelon and Puzzle to the left.
Silverhorn at right with Bobac, Watermelon and Puzzle to the left.
A closer view over Peyto Lake with Portal Peak in front of Gordon and Thompson to its right.
A closer view over Peyto Lake with Portal Peak in front of Gordon and Thompson to its right.
Getting ready to glissade the gully.
Getting ready to glissade the gully.
JW glissades the steep snow slope - caution is advised!
JW glissades the steep snow slope - caution is advised!
Apparently going head first is the more exciting way to go?!
Apparently going head first is the more exciting way to go?!
Looking back up the steep snow slope.
Looking back up the steep snow slope.
Descending back to the Icefields Parkway.
Descending back to the Icefields Parkway.
Descending back to the Icefields Parkway.
Descending back to the Icefields Parkway.
The lighting plays games across the valley.
The lighting plays games across the valley.
Raf.
Raf.
Looking over the Mistaya River towards Howse Peak, White Pyramid and Chephren.
Looking over the Mistaya River towards Howse Peak, White Pyramid and Chephren.
White Pyramid (L) and Chephren.
White Pyramid (L) and Chephren.
Descending dry terrain to the parkway.
Descending dry terrain to the parkway.
Descending dry terrain to the parkway.
Descending dry terrain to the parkway.
Back to the parking spot along hwy #93
Back to the parking spot along hwy #93
Once we got back at the car everyone toasted me on my 100th summit with a stiff shot of Jagermeister courtesy of Raf
Once we got back at the car everyone toasted me on my 100th summit with a stiff shot of Jagermeister courtesy of Raf
Mount Weed looks intimidating from hwy #93 - we ascended straight up the snow gully on the face seen here.
Mount Weed looks intimidating from hwy #93 - we ascended straight up the snow gully on the face seen here.

Leave a comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.