Summit Elevation (m): 3080 Trip Date: Saturday, June 3, 2006 Elevation Gain (m): 1300 Round Trip Time (hr): 8 Total Trip Distance (km): 8 Quick ‘n Dirty Rating: Class 3 – you fall, you break something Difficulty Notes: Steep, loose gully to the summit can be problematic with snow, ice or large groups. Technical Rating: SC6; YDS (3rd) Map: Google Maps
On Saturday, June 3 2006, Raf, Jason, Wietse and I climbed Mount Weed along the Icefields Parkway. Even though Kane doesn’t recommend this peak until late July we felt that it would be doable in the current dry conditions. It didn’t hurt that Sonny climbed it three weeks earlier either. Wietse and I were a little tired after a 23km and 1500+ meter outing to Mount Bourgeau the day before! I thought Wietse did excellent – considering this was only his 6th scramble.
Mount Weed Route Map
There is some route-finding on the lower mountain but if you stick to Kane’s instructions or get lucky and find a ‘trail’ you’ll be fine. The creek was pretty high when we went but it still dried out farther upstream and soon we were tramping up beside the two huge boulders mentioned in the guide.
Looking down our approach route – pretty straight forward from the road.
As you can see, even the lower gully is steep and loose already.
Looking back at Peyto Lake with Caldron and Peyto Peak at right and Jimmy Simpson / Thompson at left.
From the boulders you still have a very long ascent. We headed up as much snow as possible until it got too soft and then we headed back onto the scree. The final gully was choked with softening snow so we followed Jason’s lead (and Kane’s suggestion) and started scrambling up the rock bands and loose scree on climber’s right. Wietse finally ran out of gas at the 10,000 foot level and waited for us as Raf, Jason and I tagged the summit.
The views back towards Mount Patterson are incredible, especially in spring with all the snow.
Still a long way to go after the boulders that Kane mentions – looking up our ascent gully.
The snow was soft, which made step kicking a bit difficult, here JW leads.
We bailed off the snow to rock when we could, since it was too soft.
The gully steepens dramatically near the top, here the other guys prep for a steeper snow climb.
The views were incredible but the wind was very cold and soon we were trying to glissade down the steep slopes. I mean ‘attempt’ because the snow was so soft we literally couldn’t help but sink in it half the time!
L to R, Patterson, Mummery, Breaker, Howse, White Pyramid, Chephren, Murchison, Noyes, Corona Ridge, Marmota, Loudon, Peskett, Quill and Perren.A pano from just below the summit from Silverhorn and Observation (L) to Patterson (R) with peaks such as BowCrow, Crowfoot, Balfour, Thompson, Rhondda and Mistaya in between.
We made good time on the descent and soon were back on dry ground and tramping back through the forest.
