Remus, Mount

Summit Elevation (m): 2688
Trip Date: Sunday, October 30, 2005
Elevation Gain (m): 1060
Round Trip Time (hr): unknown
Total Trip Distance (km): 22
Quick ‘n Dirty Rating: Class 3 – you fall, you break something
Difficulty Notes: The Kane route up the exposed, steep chimney is moderate to difficult depending on conditions. Bob Spirko’s route around the north end of the summit block is more moderate.
Technical Rating: SC6; YDS (3rd)
GPS Track: Download
Map: Google Maps

October 30, 2005 found the RMB Kane Troopers attempting to bag yet another peak before winter could prevent such outings for another season. A bunch of us (9) decided to meet at the trail head, around 0830 on Saturday morning. I was the first to arrive after miscalculating the amount of time it would take me to grab a cup of joe at Tim Horton’s. When you’re in a hurry there’s a two-block line up and when you’re not, there isn’t another coffee drinker within miles – but that’s a whole different story!

Mount Remus 3D Route from the Little Elbow River

Eventually Dave S drove his tank into the parking lot, followed by Dave M in his Matrix. Bill and Gary were the last to arrive, in a cool party van that probably could have held all of the RMB members along with their gear! We were disappointed that the entrance to the Little Elbow CG was blocked off so we did a short scouting trip to find a way around the barricade. Everyone else missed it, but I spotted an obvious trail through the ditch which would save us some biking – we all took it and were soon at the trail head for the Little Elbow bike trail.

Mount Remus Route Map

The bike ride to the Mount Remus access gully was uneventful. We even went slow enough to allow the last member of our group to catch up – Jason came storming up the trail after leaving Calgary almost an hour later than the rest of us and actually managed to get to the 6.5 km mark first! That would set precedent for the day. We were hoping that the Little Elbow would truly be ‘little’ but a quick glance told us otherwise. After a VERY chilly ford we were back in dry socks / boats and tramping up the lower slopes of Remus.

Crossing the Little Elbow River.

Mount Remus was not a spectacular mountain as far as scrambles goes. There was great scenery, like any other mountain, but there was very little scrambling till the difficult chimney at the top. Everyone except for Dave S and Jason chose to go up the scree descent slope, just because of the wind and snow. Apparently the normal route was also mostly scree and presented no challenges to Dave S and Jason.

Eventually we all met at the top of the normal ascent route and started up the last part of the mountain. Jason kicked steps all the way up the final slopes to the summit block – thanks for having so much energy Jason!

Views towards Mount Cornwall with some of the group grinding up scree slopes in the fg.
The upper part of Mount Remus can be seen from on top of the lower scree slope. You basically traverse from right to left.

After scouting out the chimney for about 5 seconds, Jason headed straight up it! Dave S and Frank started putting on their crampons after Jason reported some pretty hard snow at the base of the chimney. Since I was already part way up the slope I continued on without them and after a few tricky moves on the slick rocks in the chimney, Jason and I were on top waiting for the others to come up. While we stuck to the rock as much as possible, the members of our party smart enough to carry crampons went right up the snow in the chimney and were soon joining us. A short traverse led quickly to the summit and soon we were standing at the top of Mount Remus. ‘Standing’ should not be taken literally as the hurricane force winds were doing their best to toss us all down the north side of the mountain!

Bill and Gary make their way to the summit of Mount Remus in very strong winds.

After a short stint at the summit we were back at the chimney. Jason showed me the way as we carefully picked our way down the steep terrain. Soon we were at the bottom, waiting for the others. Dave S showed Dave M the best way to get down while Frank and Raf followed them down. Bill and Gary did a quick rap from a fixed station at the top of the chimney. 

Jason stands on a lookout point just below the chimney. Nihahi Ridge and the SE ridge of Mount Fullerton are in the background.

Linda arrived at the base of the chimney and Jason accompanied her back up to the summit. Soon they were back and we all tramped down the scree slopes to our bikes without incident.

The only ‘incident’ of the day occurred when we all got $57 tickets for off-roading in a provincial park! Apparently the wardens waited around all day for what they thought were sheep hunters without permits – only to see 9 tired scramblers instead! Oops. That’ll be the last time anyone follows me ‘off-roading’ in my Toyota Corolla I guess!

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