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Remus, Mount

Summit Elevation (m): 2688
Trip Date: Sunday, October 30, 2005
Elevation Gain (m): 1060
Round Trip Time (hr): unknown
Total Trip Distance (km): 22
Quick ‘n Dirty Rating: Class 3 – you fall, you break something
Difficulty Notes: The Kane route up the exposed, steep chimney is moderate to difficult depending on conditions. Bob Spirko’s route around the north end of the summit block is more moderate.
Technical Rating: SC6; YDS (3rd)
Map: Google Maps


October 30, 2005 found the RMB Kane Troopers attempting to bag yet another peak before winter could prevent such outings for another season. A bunch of us (9) decided to meet at the trail head, around 0830 on Saturday morning. I was the first to arrive after miscalculating the amount of time it would take me to grab a cup of joe at Tim Horton’s. When you’re in a hurry there’s a two-block line up and when you’re not, there isn’t another coffee drinker within miles – but that’s a whole different story!

Mount Remus 3D Route from the Little Elbow River

Eventually Dave S drove his tank into the parking lot, followed by Dave M in his Matrix. Bill and Gary were the last to arrive, in a cool party van that probably could have held all of the RMB members along with their gear! We were disappointed that the entrance to the Little Elbow CG was blocked off so we did a short scouting trip to find a way around the barricade. Everyone else missed it, but I spotted an obvious trail through the ditch which would save us some biking – we all took it and were soon at the trail head for the Little Elbow bike trail.

Mount Remus Route Map

The bike ride to the Mount Remus access gully was uneventful. We even went slow enough to allow the last member of our group to catch up – Jason came storming up the trail after leaving Calgary almost an hour later than the rest of us and actually managed to get to the 6.5 km mark first! That would set precedent for the day. We were hoping that the Little Elbow would truly be ‘little’ but a quick glance told us otherwise. After a VERY chilly ford we were back in dry socks / boats and tramping up the lower slopes of Remus.

Crossing the Little Elbow River.

Mount Remus was not a spectacular mountain as far as scrambles goes. There was great scenery, like any other mountain, but there was very little scrambling till the difficult chimney at the top. Everyone except for Dave S and Jason chose to go up the scree descent slope, just because of the wind and snow. Apparently the normal route was also mostly scree and presented no challenges to Dave S and Jason.

Eventually we all met at the top of the normal ascent route and started up the last part of the mountain. Jason kicked steps all the way up the final slopes to the summit block – thanks for having so much energy Jason!

Views towards Mount Cornwall with some of the group grinding up scree slopes in the fg.
The upper part of Mount Remus can be seen from on top of the lower scree slope. You basically traverse from right to left.

After scouting out the chimney for about 5 seconds, Jason headed straight up it! Dave S and Frank started putting on their crampons after Jason reported some pretty hard snow at the base of the chimney. Since I was already part way up the slope I continued on without them and after a few tricky moves on the slick rocks in the chimney, Jason and I were on top waiting for the others to come up. While we stuck to the rock as much as possible, the members of our party smart enough to carry crampons went right up the snow in the chimney and were soon joining us. A short traverse led quickly to the summit and soon we were standing at the top of Mount Remus. ‘Standing’ should not be taken literally as the hurricane force winds were doing their best to toss us all down the north side of the mountain!

Bill and Gary make their way to the summit of Mount Remus in very strong winds.

After a short stint at the summit we were back at the chimney. Jason showed me the way as we carefully picked our way down the steep terrain. Soon we were at the bottom, waiting for the others. Dave S showed Dave M the best way to get down while Frank and Raf followed them down. Bill and Gary did a quick rap from a fixed station at the top of the chimney. 

Jason stands on a lookout point just below the chimney. Nihahi Ridge and the SE ridge of Mount Fullerton are in the background.

Linda arrived at the base of the chimney and Jason accompanied her back up to the summit. Soon they were back and we all tramped down the scree slopes to our bikes without incident.

The only ‘incident’ of the day occurred when we all got $57 tickets for off-roading in a provincial park! Apparently the wardens waited around all day for what they thought were sheep hunters without permits – only to see 9 tired scramblers instead! Oops. That’ll be the last time anyone follows me ‘off-roading’ in my Toyota Corolla I guess! 😉

Mount Remus
39 photos
Crossing the Little Elbow River.
Crossing the Little Elbow River.
Dave takes a morning dip in the Little Elbow.
Dave takes a morning dip in the Little Elbow.
Linda crosses the Little Elbow River.
Linda crosses the Little Elbow River.
The lower south gully.
The lower south gully.
Ascending scree slopes from the Little Elbow River valley.
Ascending scree slopes from the Little Elbow River valley.
Ascending scree slopes from the Little Elbow River valley.
Ascending scree slopes from the Little Elbow River valley.
Ascending scree slopes along an interesting rock wall.
Ascending scree slopes along an interesting rock wall.
Ascending scree slopes along an interesting rock wall.
Ascending scree slopes along an interesting rock wall.
Bill and Gary heading up the snowy lower slopes of Mount Remus.
Bill and Gary heading up the snowy lower slopes of Mount Remus.
Glasgow and Cornwall rise over the Little Elbow River.
Glasgow and Cornwall rise over the Little Elbow River.
Bill and Gary, about half way up, stop for a quick breather.
Bill and Gary, about half way up, stop for a quick breather.
The upper part of Mount Remus can be seen from on top of the lower scree slope. You basically traverse from right to left
The upper part of Mount Remus can be seen from on top of the lower scree slope. You basically traverse from right to left
Looking ahead to the summit block.
Looking ahead to the summit block.
Dave on ascent.
Dave on ascent.
JW poses in front of the summit block.
JW poses in front of the summit block.
On the plateau under the summit block.
On the plateau under the summit block.
Frank negotiates the snowy access to the chimney as Dave S. comes up in front of him.
Frank negotiates the snowy access to the chimney as Dave S. comes up in front of him.
JW watches the others climb the crux.
JW watches the others climb the crux.
Frank and Dave climb the crux.
Frank and Dave climb the crux.
Frank tops out of the crux.
Frank tops out of the crux.
Vern on the summit of Mount Remus.
Vern on the summit of Mount Remus.
Frank and Raf trying to talk in the hurricane winds at the summit of Mount Remus.
Frank and Raf trying to talk in the hurricane winds at the summit of Mount Remus.
Approaching the summit in strong winds.
Approaching the summit in strong winds.
JW, Dave, Raf and Frank at the summit.
JW, Dave, Raf and Frank at the summit.
Mount Romulus and some ominous looking weather behind it from the summit of Mount Remus.
Mount Romulus and some ominous looking weather behind it from the summit of Mount Remus.
Bill and Gary make their way to the summit of Mount Remus in very strong winds.
Bill and Gary make their way to the summit of Mount Remus in very strong winds.
Mount Fullerton.
Mount Fullerton.
Jason stands on a lookout point just below the chimney. Nihahi Ridge and the SE ridge of Mount Fullerton are in the background.
Jason stands on a lookout point just below the chimney. Nihahi Ridge and the SE ridge of Mount Fullerton are in the background.
Descending the crux chimney on Remus.
Descending the crux chimney on Remus.
Dave S starts down the chimney while Raf looks down the cliff on the top right of the photo.
Dave S starts down the chimney while Raf looks down the cliff on the top right of the photo.
The 'Hillary Step' is all backed up! Dave S, Dave M and Frank are all heading down the difficult chimney on Mount Remus.
The 'Hillary Step' is all backed up! Dave S, Dave M and Frank are all heading down the difficult chimney on Mount Remus.
The 'Hillary Step' is all backed up! Dave S, Dave M and Frank are all heading down the difficult chimney on Mount Remus.
The 'Hillary Step' is all backed up! Dave S, Dave M and Frank are all heading down the difficult chimney on Mount Remus.
The group takes a break out of the strong winds.
The group takes a break out of the strong winds.
The summit block of Mount Remus looks intimidating against the blue sky. Raf does not look intimidating as he glissades down from it!
The summit block of Mount Remus looks intimidating against the blue sky. Raf does not look intimidating as he glissades down from it!
Views towards Nihahi (L) and Forget-me-not (R) Ridge.
Views towards Nihahi (L) and Forget-me-not (R) Ridge.
Enjoying the scenery as we descend Remus.
Enjoying the scenery as we descend Remus.
Enjoying the scenery as we descend Remus.
Enjoying the scenery as we descend Remus.
The group prepares for the 6.5 km bike ride back to civilization and a $57 ticket...
The group prepares for the 6.5 km bike ride back to civilization and a $57 ticket...
Finishing up the bike ride at the trailhead.
Finishing up the bike ride at the trailhead.

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