French - Haig - Robertson Traverse

Published by vdewit on May 9th, 2009

Trip Details

Trip Activity:

Ski

Location:

Kananaskis Country

Trip Date:

March 7, 2008

Trip Report

On Friday March 07 2008, I took a day off work to ski the French-Haig-Robertson traverse on a gorgeous, sunny, spring-like day. Joining me on this fantastic day in the mountains was Wietse, TJ and Megan, TJ's girlfriend.

About three weeks earlier I had another chance to ski this traverse with TJ, JW and Ken and due to feeling a bit under the weather I chose to stay home. They subsequently had a great day out and ever since then I was planning on making this trip a priority. When I mentioned that Wietse and I were going for it, TJ asked if he and Megs could join us. He was hoping for better views and Megan had never been on a glacier before so she was also keen on giving this trip a try.

The day started off under a clear, cool sky as we steadily made our way up the French Creek trail. The pace was such that we could have a running conversation which made the elevation and distance gains seem a bit less. Of course the trail along French Creek really only gains a minor portion of the overall height gain for the day, but every bit counts when you need to gain over 1000 meters on A/T gear!

Eventually we came to the toe of the French Glacier, having gained about 300 meters elevation from the parking lot. TJ warned us that the view to the col between Mounts French and Robertson was deceivingly short-sighted and he was right! The route up the French Glacier is a steady climb and much longer than it looks from the bottom. I led the way up the glacier at a slightly increased pace because I knew that we were going to be pushing the eight hour window that we had due to a party I had to attend in Calgary at the end of the day. I felt about a million times better than the week before on the Dolomite Circuit where I had absolutely no power in my legs for some reason. This day was much different. With a blue sky above, towering peaks all around and firm snow under my climbing skins I felt like everything was in sync with the world again!

As we got higher and higher the views kept getting even better. Soon we could see peaks all all the Spray Lakes corridor. This trip really does take you quite high into the alpine. The views towards the French / Robertson col varied between blue sky and clouds so we weren't exactly sure what was waiting for us at the top. The weather on the Haig ice field is notoriously finicky, probably because it's so close to the continental divide with big peaks funneling the weather over the divide and onto the glacier. Like many glaciers, any clouds from below usually means a whiteout on the glacier itself so we tried to be hopeful as we saw the clouds move over the col...

Eventually I could spot the huge snow scoop that delineates the French and Haig glaciers. The view over the col was absolutely stunning with clouds, snow and rock all brilliantly backdropped by a deep blue sky that you only see at higher altitudes. As I photographed TJ climbing the snow scoop on his skis I knew that I was going to have some kicking photos from this trip! Once Mount Sir Douglas came into view with clouds whipping over its ridge and snow highlighting its wild contours I knew that this day would stand out as one of the best of the year for me. There was hardly any wind above the col and we stopped for a nice bite of lunch while drinking in the incredible views. As we stood there contemplating life and it's many mysteries the clouds started to whip in over Maude Peak. Rod McAlister, who was skiing solo and caught up with us, engaged in a short conversation on his way past. He recognized me and it was nice to finally meet someone that I've 'seen' on the web board for a while already! Wietse and Rod were soon disappearing into the clouds which were now hugging the Haig Glacier closely. I followed them and was amazed how quickly my views went from blue, sunny sky to a white out!

Soon we were traversing a slope that seemed steep enough to slide. I know I couldn't have skinned straight up it which means it was certainly a candidate! With the hot sun shining directly on this slope for a couple of hours already (before the clouds moved in) I wanted to get off it as soon as possible and did just that. As the clouds dissipated I could see Rod way below Wietse and I heading for the steep snow slopes to the Sir Douglas / Robertson Col. That slope was much bigger than I had imagined it to be! For some reason, I thought it was only a few meters high! Depending on your definition of a 'few', this was a lot more than I thought it would be.

Once on the slope I actually tried skiing up the whole thing - and pretty much could have too. I got a little chicken near the top of it because it started feeling like I may be on some tricky avalanche terrain. With the hot sun once again baking the slope, I choose to follow Rod and Wietse's example and strapped the skis to my pack, traversing back to climber's right into Rod's tracks. In the meantime, TJ and Megs descended back from their attempt at a high traverse, following old ski tracks, which would have also allowed them to access the col on skis the whole way. This route was climber's right of the 'normal' walk-up route and they also felt nervous crossing the slopes that their route would have demanded. Once I got up to the col I had another brief conversation with Rod before he headed off down the Robertson. I took more photos of the incredible scenery and waited patiently for the others to show up. Soon we were all ready to take off down the Robertson Glacier. Wietse was a little nervous about his first back country ski descent on a glacier but he took off gamely! I was talking to TJ when I glanced back down the Robertson and noticed little pieces of Wietse's gear scattered over a large area of glacier! Wietse himself was face down, presumably tasting the glacier - I guess he likes to get comfortable with new terrain... ;-) I skied down to assist him and I must say that he was very determined to get down that hunk of snow and ice! We stayed high on skiers left until we were far enough to drop down into the bowl of the valley at the toe of the Robertson. I think you could go right down the middle of the glacier too, but there would be more crevasse hazard over the bulge - if there are indeed very many crevasses. We only saw some small seracs on this particular day.

The rest of the ski out was pleasurable and warm. The trudge back to the parking lot from the lake was a bit of a bore but we made good time and came to the cars about 8 hours after starting out. Not a fast time but we weren't really out there to race. That would have been a waste of the weather we were lucky to enjoy! This was one of the best ski days I've had so far on my A/T gear. A wonderful trip for a clear day - it wouldn't be worth the effort or risk on a snowy or really cloudy one.

Megs and TJ skiing along French Creek.

Wietse and Megan climbing up a steep section of the trail in thick trees.

Megan and TJ as we start to break tree line. Mount Robertson on the far left of the picture in the sun light.

TJ looks pretty small in front of the towering north walls of Mount Roberston. He is just in front of the French Glacier.

A very fore-shortened view of the French Glacier with interesting cloud patterns. Through the gap is the Haig Icefield.

TJ, Megs and Wietse coming up the French Glacier.

Wietse is still on the French Glacier, I have just got onto the Haig Icefield. Behind him you can spot Commonwealth Peak and Mount Birdwood in the cloud.

TJ skis up the enormous wind scoop (snow drift) that marks the transition from the French Glacier onto the Haig Icefield.

Megan skis through the Robertson (left) and Mount French (right) col.

Vern with impressive Mount Sir Douglas in the background.

Megan and TJ - nice post card! :-)

Mount Maude is buried in clouds that come racing in over the continental divide.

Another shot of Sir Dougie. What a beauty!! I wonder if those people in the plane can spot it?

Clouds and snow make a wild landscape a few minutes after the previous picture - Sir Douglas is gone!

Wietse and Rod ski into the clouds on the Haig.

Wietse struggling up the steep slope to the Douglas / Robertson Col - the Haig Icefield stretched out underneath him.

With the sun beating down on it, this slope wasn't a place to linger too long. The snow wasn't very deep and the scree was holding it pretty good but it felt somewhat exposed to me.