Fisher Peak

Trip Details
Attained Summit?: 
Yes
Trip Date: 
Saturday, September 2, 2006
Summit Elevation (m): 
3,053
Summit Elevation (ft): 
10,017
YDS Class: 
5.0-5.2
YDS Grade: 
I
Trip Report

Trip Report

On Saturday, September 02 2006, Raff Jason and I set out to climb Fisher Peak in the front ranges of Kananaskis Country. The weather was fantastic and the day was gruelling. Appropriately for a difficult mountain there was a great feeling of accomplishment at the end of the day and Fisher Peak will remain near the top of my scrambles because of its difficulty and remoteness. Our round trip time was just over 10 hours. Now for the details.

Let's get something out of the way right off the bat. Fisher Peak is not for the faint of heart. This is one long and tough day out - but it's also a very rewarding one. We were only the fifth party to make the summit this year and in the past 8 years only a handful have braved the slog to record thier names in the register. I noticed that not even the Alberta Centennial register debacle influenced this peak!

The bike ride can be described in one word. ROUGH. Horses can really bugger up a trail and this horse track has not escaped that fate. The few smooth sections are very welcome but mostly you are on bone-jarring rubble. Stones the size of footballs and baseballs conspire to throw you off line and if you're not looking ahead you can end up in thick mud-bogs which could end up stealing your granny gear - right Jason? Over roughly 8km (pun intended) you gain 500m and lose about 100 more. We followed Bill Kerr's excellent suggestions on this trip. Bill was even kind enough to give me his GPS waypoints. We used Bill's start point which is slightly further than either Gillean Daffern's or Kane's suggestions. After the last stream crossing we went up a long hill and stashed the bikes at the top of the next long hill down. (If you need more details just email me.

We headed up through the steep forest, angling climber's right to try to hit the pinnacle that Bill mentioned on his site. We actually ended up right on the pinnacle, after climbing a ridge that turned from steep grass to rough plate-sized shale. We didn't really know we were right on top of the pinnacle until Jason uttered an "oh no"! We peered down the nose of the pinnacle and realized that Bill's route split off to climber's right about 300 meters back down the slope. We could have back tracked but that would be a waste of time, not? Instead we decided that we'd warm up for the crux down climb and started down the loose rubble on the nose of the pinnacle. We think everyone should go up via this route. If you look at it and turn back because it's too steep / exposed you will not downclimb the crux and you should not bother with the 500 meters elevation gain just to turn back again.

After that bit of fun we had a nice scree slog to look forward to! Oh well. It ended (sort of) once we finally hit the ridge. By the time we hit the ridge we were a good 100-200 vertical meters above the large plateau that Kane's route goes over and about 1km further up the ridge. I found the ridge to be fun but long. The view is very foreshortened and every time you think you're at the crux or the summit you still have plenty to go.

As we leaned over and peered down the crux I thought back to Bill's words of advice. He suggested that instead of going down to skier's right on tricky ledges, we go straight down the very exposed / steep nose on firmer terrain. I didn't want to think about things too long and headed down straight over the nose! The first few moves were very exposed and a slip was not optional. I never actually felt that concerned about it but this is certainly a difficult and exposed crux and probably deserves some respect.

The line I picked went straight over the nose of the crux and then angled down to my (skier) left. Once I reached a nastly looking, over hanging section I went back across the nose, under an overhang. That overhang is just to climber's right of the crux pictured in the front of Kane's book. Jason actually came down right of that crux over some very steep (i.e. cliff) terrain. I really enjoyed the climbing down the crux and found it challenging and fun. There were a few loose rocks that kept things interesting but we all made it down safely and could now concentrate on the summit right? WRONG.

The most surprising thing about Fisher Peak is that there is more than one crux downclimb. We had already done two and would do another two or three on the way to the summit. The weather was absolutely perfect and we were having a grand time but the summit really took a long time to show up. There was even a short, exposed ridge that reminded us of the cockscomb on Crandell. The only fatality recorded on Fisher was the result of sliding down slabs and losing control. At first I couldn't figure out where this accident could have happened but after climbing a few steep, slabby sections I had it figured out. Wet, snowy or icy conditions would make the crux dangerous and the slabs amost impossible to climb or down climb safely.

Finally we made the summit and enjoyed fantastic views in every direction. It was nice to have unimpeded views for once! I guess the last bout of wet weather must have damped the forest fires in Washington that had been ruining Rockies views for the past few weeks. After a leisurely 45 minutes at the summit we headed back down. The best thing about Fisher Peak that I have never experienced before is that all the difficult down climbing is done on ascent and so all the fun climbing gets to be done on the descent. We even re-climbed the pinnacle on the way down - just for fun!

The bike ride back to the parking lot was fast and furious with Jason setting a crazy pace. I'm still not sure how I survived but I obviously did! Overall this was an awesome scramble with lots of challenging route finding and a feeling of remoteness. A worthy peak for anyone's list but not one that I'd recommend doing until you're comfortable with exposed downclimbing and long days!


 
Raff climbs the steep grass slopes that lead the brown pinnacle.
 
Jason on the plate-scree on the way up the backside of the pinnacle.
 
A view to the side off the pinnacle downclimb.
 
Raff downclimbs the brown pinnacle above me.
 
Jason with the pinnacle and Raff behind.
 
On the ridge!
 
Yikes! Looking down the suggested descent ledge from on top of the first crux.
 
Looking down the nose - the way that we both descended and ascended. Double yikes!! ;-)
 
Ok - is this a scramble or what? Raff on the second difficult downclimb, right after the first one.
 
And in case you weren't having enough fun - here's another difficult downclimb!
 
The royal group is clearly visible from the summit of Fisher Peak.
 
Mount Assiniboine shows up over the Spray Lakes peaks.
 
Even Mount Temple is visible behind (and left of) Mount Bogart.
 
Remus and Romulus (along with Glasgow and a bunch of others) are right behind Fisher Peak. No wonder that darn bike ride is so long.
 
Raff, Jason and Vern on the summit of Fisher Peak.

Start counting! Haze would not ruin our views this day.

Looking southeast from the summit.
 
Jason was so happy to survive the climb he pulled out some tequila and chocolate to celebrate!
 
Joffre and other Kananaskis Lakes area peaks are visible on this clear day.
 
Mount Fullerton and the Nihahi / Compression Ridge traverse look very dry right now.
 
Jason climbs a steep cliff band on the way back down.
 
Raff climbs the cliff with Jason looking on.
 
Raff is a bit higher now, angling slightly to climber's left.
 
Raff negotiates a narrow ridge on the descent.
 
Jason completes yet another tricky upclimb on the descent.
 
Jason is about 1/3 of the way up the main crux. Kane's descent route joins just to climber's left, we came down under the overhang from climber's right. (And went up there too)
 
Raff comes up the crux behind me.
 
The brown pinnacle comes into view as we work our way down the tedious ridge.
 
Raff and Jason are far below me, just starting the last exciting climb of the day on the pinnacle.
 
Jason tops out on the pinnacle.
 
I think Raff's still having fun!
 
It's still a bloody long ride home all the way down the valley.
 
Looking down the ridge that will take us back to our bikes.
 
The views are still incredible on the way down.
 
The descent is quite a steep slog - no loose stuff here, it's all in the knees!