Cordonnier, Mount


Trip Details
Mountain Range: 
Mountain Subrange: 
Attained Summit?: 
Trip Date: 
Wednesday, September 6, 2006
Summit Elevation (m): 
Summit Elevation (ft): 
Elevation Gain (m): 
Total Distance (km): 
Difficulty Notes: 

The traverse from Warrior to Cordonnier is moderate scrambling with exposure. You can avoid this by ascending our descent route in the north gully as marked on the map.

Trip Report

Rod, Jon and I scrambled Cordonnier as part of our Northover Ridge backpacking trip in September 2006. We first ascended Warrior Mountain and then proceeded along the ridge towards Cordonnier.


The connecting ridge from Warrior to Cordonnier was more fun, but also more difficult than I expected. I don't think Kane's rating of 'easy' is justified for this ridge. I understand that he is probably rating it for mountaineers though, because he assumes that in order to get up Warrior you crossed the glacier and therefore are used to airy traverses. Well, it was quite airy and on one section it was also very loose. A fall off the left side would not have been fatal (probably) but sure would have hurt! A fall off the right side of the ridge wouldn't have hurt very long, because it would have been fatal. :P


[Rod on the connecting ridge to Cordonnier from Warrior showing the exposure off the west side of the ridge.]

[I personally think this is more than just 'easy' scrambling terrain. A slip to the left would be injuries for sure, probably severe. Going off to the right obviously isn't even an option for survivability! ;)]

[Another shot of the moderate scrambling section of the ridge.]

[Rod on another narrow section of the connecting ridge.]


After that bit of excitement we plodded further up the ridge and onto the final section to Cordonnier's summit. Again, there were short traverses here that were quite exposed, but also very fun. An hour after leaving the summit of Warrior, we were standing on the summit of Cordonnier trying to spot the New Zealand couple that we met in the Aster Lake campground on Joffre. I sincerely doubt they made the summit after looking at those icy slopes and considering their (lack of) ice climbing gear!


[On our second summit of the day!]

[Surprisingly clear views towards Northover and Lyautey (R).]

[Joffre is looking extremely icy this late in the (dry) season! When I climbed it in 2014 we could snowshoe straight up the 35-40 degree slopes of the Mangin Glacier to the summit without worrying about crevasses or ice. Mount Mangin at right.]

[As far as I know, Mangin is not an easy or straight forward ascent.]


After a short break we started back down the alternate descent from Cordonnier. Rod and I got a bit off track but there was no major problems and we arrived back at the gravel flats. Jon and I would head over to Mount Northover next.


[Rod and Jon return from the summit over the impressive summit ridge.]

[Exposure off the summit ridge.]

[You really don't want ice or snow on this slabby section.]

[Vern and Rod on the slabs on the summit ridge.]

[Rod navigates the narrow section of summit ridge where you can't afford to slip to either side!]

[Jon is ready to head down Kane's alternate descent route now (out of sight in front of us here).]

[Rod and Kane's alternate descent route down the north gully rising left to the summit ridge of Cordonnier behind him.]

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