Beatrice Peak


Trip Details
Mountain Range: 
Mountain Subrange: 
Attained Summit?: 
Trip Date: 
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Summit Elevation (m): 
Summit Elevation (ft): 
Total Distance (km): 
Difficulty Notes: 

A steep, loose gully to exit the peak could be problematic with a large party or snow / ice.

Trip Report

After ascending Mount Ball we decided to give Beatrice Peak a go. It seems very minor compared with the bulk of Ball, but it's an impressive height on it's own. It's only 25 meters lower than Stanley Peak.


From the col it only took us a few minutes and we were on the second windless peak of the day. Our two followers soon joined us but since they were going all the way back to the parking lot they bailed off the summit very quickly. I'm sure they had an interesting descent considering one of them was cramping up already on Mount Ball! We encouraged them to give the alternate descent gully a shot. We figured if it didn't go we would probably find out this way! Aren't we nice people? Based on Dave Stephen's trip report that Andrea had printed out we were pretty certain it would go (Dave did it when it was full of snow.) 


[Descending from Ball to the Beatrice col. ++]

[Stanley Peak is impressive beside Beatrice.]

[Looking back at Mount Ball. ++]

[Massive summit pano with Ball at center. ++]

[Bob and Sonny's entries.]

[Sayin' it like it is!]

[Mount Ball]

[Vern on the summit of Mount Beatrice with Stanley in the bg.]

[Looking towards Storm Mountain.]

[Gorgeous views of the glacier between Stanley and Ball. ++]


The views from Beatrice were still very good, but not quite the quality of Mount Ball. After another relaxing summit stay we decided that since the other two guys hadn't come back they were either stuck in the gully or they made it out already. We proceeded down the west side of Beatrice to the col above the gully and scoped out the route. It looked fabulous, but rather loose.


We scree-skied down the gully until hitting a snow patch which we glissaded and boot-skied before resuming on large scree. This descent gully is much quicker than retracing your ascent route through the waterfall and probably safer too - assuming you have a brain bucket on. The gully is full of very loose rock and rock fall is a hazard here. The good news is that it's a short exposure to any hazards.


[The steep and loose exit gully under the summit of Beatrice.]

[Yep - steep and loose!]

[Putting the little bit of snow in the gully to good use.]

[Trying to maintain control on descent.]

[The team fans out on exiting the steep gully.]


We leisurely made our way back to our bivy drop before lugging our gear back up to a perfect bivy site about .5km past the tree line where there was a rock kitchen set up, complete with chair, table and cooking area! A small stream briefly surfaced just under a nearby rock wall before plunging back into the rock - this is possibly the best bivy site you'll find in the area, but it's wide open so maybe not so good if it's windy or raining.


[Hiking back to camp on Karst Pavement.]

[I think this was some of the most interesting terrain I've hiked through in the Rockies.]

[A glance back at Ball.]

[Life meets limestone.]


Supper never tasted so good! I found the perfect little depression in the ground to sleep in and couldn't wait to get into my warm sleeping bag! After supper I spent a couple of hours wandering around the karst pavement above our camp, trying to get some video and pictures of the marmot population. One little guy was not very smart. Every time he poked his head out I would scare him. Each time he would get too curious and come back out! I did this 20 times and he kept coming back for another peek. Small minds are easily amused I guess (I'm not referring to the marmot here).


[What a bivy spot!!]

[Saxifrage is a beautiful and tiny alpine flower that only thrives near water.]

[A noisy (cute!) neighbor.]


Sunset was amazing. The whole world turned pink for about 5 minutes. So and I stayed up late to get some star pictures. I should have done some research on how to do this better. Next time I'll be better prepared with more batteries. While we were climbing Ball / Beatrice, two other guys came up and set up their bivy next to ours. They were going after Mount Ball on Sunday and had taken over 6.5 hours to get through the approach. Mount Ball was becoming a pretty popular place!


[Prayer flags on the approach to Ball.]

[The sun sets over camp.]

[The moon rises to the west.]


After getting into my warm sleeping bag around 2230 I was mesmerized by the incredible night sky. A few meteors only added to the incredible view of the Milky Way and stars that seemed so close I could touch them. I have never seen a sky quite like that. Absolutely incredible - it made the trip worth it right there. I fell asleep and slept like a baby until 0600 when my alarm told me it was time to pack camp and head over to ascend Stanley Peak.


[Sunset from my sleeping bag.]

[Full on darkness settles over the Rockies.]


Add new comment

Plain text

  • No HTML tags allowed.
  • Web page addresses and e-mail addresses turn into links automatically.
  • Lines and paragraphs break automatically.
Enter the characters shown in the image.