The 11000ers of the Canadian Rockies

[Negotiating the exciting summit ridge of South Twin Peak.]

The 11,000ers were first identified as a list of objectives, and consequently completed in 1979 by the indefatigable Don Forest who only started alpine climbing at around my age (early 40's)! Since then, around a dozen people are known to have completed this test of mountaineering and tolerance of suffering. There are quite a few more attempting it nowadays and I expect that this number will double in the next few years. Bill Corbett was the third person to complete the list and has written a comprehensive book on them, including their histories and routes. Nancy Hansen currently owns the record for speed, completing the list in around 7 years. I know of at least one person who is set to do the list of 58 in much less than that, but I won't jinx them here!

My first 11,000er was Mount Victoria's main, south summit back on Sepember 9th, 2007. This is such a classic mountain that I'm glad it was my first. Mount Huber was my second, on the same day, and Mount Temple was my third only a week later. Now, a decade or so later, I'm still not nearly finished the list of 54 (58) peaks, but I've made some progress at around 40 peaks. After completing the Kane list of scrambles (2nd ed.) in 2009, I vowed never to chase someone else's list of summits again and I'm maintaining this resolve for the Rockies 11,000ers. I will likely never get all of them and I don't really care. ;)

The reason why I have pursued many of these lofty and often remote peaks (by Canadian Rockies standards), is the same reason why I pursue most of my Rockies adventures - because they're located in some of the most pristine landscapes that Canada has to offer. Most of the peaks that I've climbed are fairly non-technical in nature. They aren't usually on any elite alpinist's list simply because they're mostly huge piles of loose, hazardous choss. Only true adventure-seekers and folks who enjoy healthy doses of suffering physically, mentally and spiritually will ever attain more than a few dozen of these particular summits.