Andromeda, Mount


Trip Details
Mountain Range: 
Mountain Subrange: 
Attained Summit?: 
Trip Date: 
Sunday, April 17, 2016
Summit Elevation (m): 
Summit Elevation (ft): 
Elevation Gain (m): 
Round Trip Time: 
Total Distance (km): 
Quick 'n Easy Rating: 
Class 3 : you fall, you break your leg
Difficulty Notes: 

The route itself is one of the easiest on the Columbia Icefield, but objective hazards should be respected including many crevasses, serac exposure and some avalanche slopes on route.

Trip Report

I wasn't sure that I would manage to summit my last 11,000er on the main Columbia Icefield in the spring of 2016. Rumors were flying around that the Athabasca Glacier approach was toast this year thanks to an extremely warm winter / spring combined with low snow and an serac event that covered the route I've always used through the headwall with tons of ice and snow earlier in the year. I wasn't too concerned, as I knew I could approach the south ridge from the Saskatchewan Glacier if I had to, some other year. The South Ridge is the easiest route on Andromeda (there are a lot of routes on this particular 11,000er) and probably one of the technically easiest ascents on the Columbia Icefields - but it does have a lot of objective hazards so I didn't want to underestimate it. To be honest, I had mixed feelings about doing my last Athabasca Glacier ski mountaineering approach. It's true that this approach is full of objective hazards and I've been extremely lucky not to have had a single bad experience through the icefall, but it's also a gorgeous area with rock, snow, ice, wind, clouds and sun all competing for attention as skiers skin up steep snow through crevasses and under towering ridges of snow and ice a vertical kilometer above, staring coldly down at them as they thread their way through it's hard, blue detritus. It's an area that hundreds and hundreds of visitors to our beautiful province gaze towards every day and wonder who the heck goes up to that forbidding place and actually enjoys themselves while doing it! 


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Hi Vern, just came across your site and realyl enjoyed your trip report and especially the photos. Just curious, what do you think of a ski ascent of Androlumbia? Did it look like it could be descended on skis from the summit?

Hey Dustin, yes I think it could be. See my trip report on Androlumbia for some photos. We didn't ski to the summit because it was really choppy skiing but it could be done. Skiing directly down the west face from the summit might be problematic though - there's more than one crevasse on that slope! :)

Your excursions in the Rockies make my little dayhikes seem infantile! You've got a comment in your "Nigel Peak" report that you've climbed all the peaks at the Columbia Icefield "except for Andromeda". Looks like you'll have to update that comment now! Thanks for posting pics and documenting your trips on your website.

Thanks for the note Steve. A day trip is always worth it - some of my favourite outings are the nice day trips I've done with family or friends over the years. See you in the hills some day!

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