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Topic "Mary Barclays to Lorette (1 of 3)" started by Wietse Bylsma on May-06-2008
Topic "Mary Barclay (1 of 6)" started by Parry Loeffler on Apr-29-2007
Topic "Mary's Little Mountain (1 of 15)" started by Vern Dewit on Mar-09-2008

Topic: Mary's Little Mountain (1 of 15)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Sunday, March 09, 2008 07:56 PM

Saturday, March 08 I decided that after a big ski day on the French-Haig-Robertson traverse I'd do something a little easier this day. The forecast looked pretty good for K-Country so I figured it was time to wade the Kananaskis River and give Mary Barclay's Mountain a try.

Believe it or not this little peak offers much more of a challenge than similarly little local peaks such as Heart Mountain and Baldy Mountain. The ridge was a lot more fun than I expected but the bushwhacking was also more extensive than I was planning on. The odd patch of knee deep snow with a 2 inch rock hard ice crust also kept the language colorful on some sections.

The final ridge to the summit is very exposed in sections and I found the hand holds quite loose. It's my first real scramble of the season so I'm a bit rusty but I would say upper moderate, especially if coming back down the ridge instead of using the alternate descent. I avoided the alternate descent because of lingering snow in the valley. A highly recommended season warm-up peak, but be careful crossing that river! Some pics:











More at http://verndewit.com/p946901232.

Vern Dewit
http://www.fresh-oxygen.com
http://verndewit.com/

Topic: Mary's Little Mountain (2 of 15)
Author: Wayne H
Date: Monday, March 10, 2008 08:23 AM

great looking day! What's the elevation gain?

Topic: Mary's Little Mountain (3 of 15)
Author: Marko Stavric
Date: Monday, March 10, 2008 08:49 AM

Nice. I've been thinking about Mary Barclay or Lorette for next weekend.. or both? Thanks in advance for breaking trail ;)

Topic: Mary's Little Mountain (4 of 15)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Monday, March 10, 2008 09:56 AM

Hey Marko, it may be a great idea to get both of these peaks in one day. Not 100% sure if it can be done but I'm 95% sure that you could traverse from the top of MB to Lorette. I would do the route in that order because the descent down Lorette's gully would be nice and quick and much easier than back down MB.

Vern Dewit
http://www.fresh-oxygen.com
http://verndewit.com/

Topic: Mary's Little Mountain (5 of 15)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Monday, March 10, 2008 09:54 AM

I think the height gain is around 850-900 meters. It seemed to me that I was higher than Baldy - or at least very close to the same height.

Vern Dewit
http://www.fresh-oxygen.com
http://verndewit.com/

Topic: Mary's Little Mountain (6 of 15)
Author: Jonathan C
Date: Monday, March 10, 2008 10:52 AM

about that rock hard crust with waist deep powder underneath... pretty much the most frusterating thing you can imagine walking through... 100m of that is a whole lot harder than 500m vertical of moderate scrambling.

That being said, great pictures as always vern! Looks like you had a fantastic day out.

Topic: Mary's Little Mountain (7 of 15)
Author: Mike Fisher
Date: Monday, March 10, 2008 10:54 AM

Nice photos as always Vern. It's a fun little mountain and would likely be more popular if the river crossing wasn't there. It's about 60 metres higher than Baldy if I remember correctly.

Topic: Mary's Little Mountain (8 of 15)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Monday, March 10, 2008 12:12 PM

Thanks guys, and that makes sense that it's higher. I agree that the river crossing makes this entertaining peak much less traveled than it would be otherwise.

The summit register has a surprising number of scrambling / climbing elite in it considering how small this mountain is. It was also not very full for being 9 years old. I would say only about 5 or 6 ascents a year are done on Mary Barclay's.

Vern Dewit
http://www.fresh-oxygen.com
http://verndewit.com/

Topic: Mary's Little Mountain (9 of 15)
Author: Jp S
Date: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 12:47 PM

Vern - You know that by saying that few people have climbed this, everyone on the board is going to go out and climb it this season.

My recollection of previous posts is that people considered this "difficult" by the book standards. If it is like the downclimb on Baldy or the initial part of the Baldy traverse - those are all rated difficult in the book.

Not that I am planning to do this this year but ... is this trip written up somewhere? I think the name is unofficial and I don't even know where it is. My guess is that it is the bump/peak North east of Lorette but part of the same massif?

jp

Topic: Mary's Little Mountain (10 of 15)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 01:48 PM

My TR will be up sometime this week but Andrew Nugara's book has a good route description.

Vern Dewit
http://www.fresh-oxygen.com
http://verndewit.com/

Topic: Mary's Little Mountain (11 of 15)
Author: Frank Nelson
Date: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 03:45 PM

It might start to get more popular now, but not many here have done it since I posted a TR on it like 5 years ago.
It's a great fun and short scramble. I think this spring I may go back and traverse through to Heart Mtn/HWY 1.

Frank

Topic: Mary's Little Mountain (12 of 15)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 04:24 PM

That river crossing will deter the average person - especially in early spring. It may actually be even worse in the summer because in the morning it'll be low and in the early afternoon it'll be raging! It's only because of our fly-fishing that we aren't scared of the water Frank! :-)

I was especially surprised at the lengths that some of the people in the register went to get this little peak. A good number seemed to have either walked or biked in from Barrier Lake!

Vern Dewit
http://www.fresh-oxygen.com
http://verndewit.com/

Topic: Mary's Little Mountain (13 of 15)
Author: Frank Nelson
Date: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 04:44 PM

lol all that wading experience does come in handy every now and again!
Frank

Topic: Mary's Little Mountain (14 of 15)
Author: Sandra Mcguinness
Date: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 07:39 PM

We did it many years ago and cycled along Stony trail from Ribbon Creek - took maybe half to one hour to cycle. Pretty easy.

Topic: Mary's Little Mountain (15 of 15)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 04:19 PM

OK, that's almost as quick as it took to cross the river - but you didn't get any cool pictures from the middle of the Kananaskis River did you? :-)

Vern Dewit
http://www.fresh-oxygen.com
http://verndewit.com/

Topic: Mary Barclay (1 of 6)
Author: Parry Loeffler
Date: Sunday, April 29, 2007 11:52 AM

Hey all,

Did Mary Barclay yesterday with Mike F. and another friend.

The Crux and another spot smelled a little of mountaineering due to the snow/ice and gale force winds. Caution/attentiveness required.

The river was 2.5 feet deep. My friend used a new hybrid way of crossing using tevas with gaitors (see photo). I suspect the gaitors provided little in the way of waterproofness, but possible added 10 degrees of warmth psychologically.

Here's a few photos:
http://picasaweb.google.com/summitguy/20070428MaryBarclayScrambleKananaskis

Parry
http://www.parryloeffler.com

Topic: Mary Barclay (2 of 6)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Sunday, April 29, 2007 02:55 PM

Cool pictures Parry! That one looks like a half decent scramble. Given Kane's ratings what would you rate it if dry?

Vern Dewit
http://www.fresh-oxygen.com
http://www.pbase.com/vdewit

Topic: Mary Barclay (3 of 6)
Author: Parry Loeffler
Date: Sunday, April 29, 2007 04:40 PM

Hey Vern... even if dry, I'd probably still lean to a DIFFICULT rating due to:

- the one step that makes the crux
- the exposure on the top part
- the river crossing

Parry
http://www.parryloeffler.com

Topic: Mary Barclay (4 of 6)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Sunday, April 29, 2007 05:15 PM

Cool - definitely worth a try then! :-)

Vern Dewit
http://www.fresh-oxygen.com
http://www.pbase.com/vdewit

Topic: Mary Barclay (5 of 6)
Author: Bill Kerr
Date: Sunday, April 29, 2007 06:10 PM

Does look like fun but might have take some hipwaders.

bill.kerr@shaw.ca
http://www.billkerr.ca

Topic: Mary Barclay (6 of 6)
Author: Mike Fisher
Date: Monday, April 30, 2007 07:08 AM

It was a lot of fun and well worth doing. If you're not up for the river crossing, it can also be done by biking along the electric line from Nakiska and likely would work from Barrier Dam too.

I'd agree with Parry about the difficulty rating. It's pretty hands on near the top and offers a good amount of exposure.

We opted to descend into the valley between Barclay and Lorette. The descent wasn't without its challenges. We had to down climb and kick step our way off the summit and further down, had to down climb slabby sections to get around a waterfall.



Mike

Topic: Mary Barclays to Lorette (1 of 3)
Author: Wietse Bylsma
Date: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 10:18 PM

Does anyone know if it is possible to traverse from MB to Lorette. If so, how hard would it be?

Thanks,

Wietse Bylsma
http://canada4u.zenfolio.com

Topic: Mary Barclays to Lorette (2 of 3)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 08:31 AM

I believe it is. Just continue on the ridge from MB west and then trend to climber's left till you're on top of Lorette. Check out Andrew's site, I think he's done that, or something similar anyway.

Vern Dewit
http://www.fresh-oxygen.com
http://verndewit.com/

Topic: Mary Barclays to Lorette (3 of 3)
Author: Andrew Nugara
Date: Sunday, May 11, 2008 08:31 PM

Wietse,

I'm not sure if that traverse is possible. There is a large buttress blocking the route, but as Vern suggests it might be avoidable on the left side.

Mark and I did a little bit of the traverse towards Heart Mountain when we did Mary Barclay Mountain. That traverse looks quite feasible, if you leave a vehicle at the Heart Creek trail head.

Andrew