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Topic "Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (1 of 18)" started by Mountain Ninja on Aug-15-2006
Topic "Lyell's 2006 Camp (1 of 13)" started by Dave Stephens on Aug-09-2005

Topic: Lyell's 2006 Camp (1 of 13)
Author: Dave Stephens
Date: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 02:53 PM

A group of us are planning a mountaineering summer camp in an effort to bag the Lyells and Forbes. The time of the trip will be early August 2006. The trip will start by a drive up the logging roads north of Golden. There, a helicopter will take you on a five minute ride to waterfall surrounded camp. It's really beauiful up there.

This trip will mirror a trip I did in August 2001 with ACC Calgary. You can check out that trip report at:
http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/calgary/summer/summercamp2001.html

and you can flip through my slideshow at:
http://www.dave-stephens.com/alpine/northofgolden/lyells/lyells-ss.htm.

The major objectives in the area are the five Lyells and Mt. Forbes. All of which are over 11,000ft. Lyells 1, 2, 3, and 5 are non-technical (except for the nearly crevassse-free glacier hike). Lyell 4 and Forbes are technical climbs. You can also bag Mons Peak, which is a lot of fun, but heavily crevassed. Unfortunately, there isn't much in the way of scrambles. In fact, you can only scramble Division Mtn, just above camp.

The helicopter is the expensive part of the trip. It holds 5 people with minimal gear or 4 people with lots of gear, so in order to make the "per person" cost cheapest, you'll want a group of 9 or 14 people. So far, we have 7 people who are interested (Dan Ronsky, Gervais Henry, Randy Coldwell, Denis Pelletier, Blair Piggot, Alan Trigg, and myself).

If you are not a technical climber, but are interested in the non-technical objectives, let me know. We would teach you the basics of crevasse rescue and place you on a rope team with experienced people. For instance, one inexperienced person on a team of four. If you're interested in this camp, let me know.

Financially, when I did this trip in 2001, helicopter fees worked out to $200/person. We aren't looking for any financial committment. Just an idea of the number of people interested. If we can get about 14 people, that would be fantastic.

Dave Stephens
www.dave-stephens.com

Topic: Lyell's 2006 Camp (2 of 13)
Author: Paul Russell
Date: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 03:52 PM

Hey Dave,

I'm mucho interested. Count me in!


Paul.

Topic: Lyell's 2006 Camp (3 of 13)
Author: Dave Stephens
Date: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 04:31 PM

I should mention that Don McTighe (the helicopter pilot) wants a verbal committment in January sometime. We don't pay him until the day he picks us up.

Paul, I figured you and Andrew would jump all over this, but I hope some others from this group will come as well.


Dave Stephens
www.dave-stephens.com

Topic: Lyell's 2006 Camp (4 of 13)
Author: Adam Iwaniszyn
Date: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 04:56 PM

Dave,

How long would the trip be? I guess you could bag all of them in 3 days once you're there, of course weather permitting.

I would definitely be interested. I'll talk to my regular partner (Leszek) too and see if he's interested in it as well.

Adam

Topic: Lyell's 2006 Camp (5 of 13)
Author: Linda Breton
Date: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 04:58 PM

That sounds like an awfully tempting trip for myself. I would be interested in the non-technical peaks, but I have learned the basics of crevasse rescue (though I would need a refresher!). How long of a trip would it be?

Of course, I can't commit until I see what happens later this year to my situation.

Linda Breton

Topic: Lyell's 2006 Camp (6 of 13)
Author: Dave Stephens
Date: Tuesday, August 09, 2005 05:37 PM

The trip would be fly in and out on Saturdays. It would most likely be August 5th through 12th.

Adam, the climbing days are long, but easy on your knees. It's just a lot of walking on snow. Nonetheless, you'll probably want a rest day between the climbing days. I know I can't handle back to back long days like that. But that's not to stop you and Lez. Then you could bag the five Lyells, Forbes, Mons, Division, etc. That would be impressive.

Linda - I think you'd have fun. Walking on the glacier. It's really pretty up there. Plus the highest Lyell is #2, which is the easiest of the five. You'd have a great time.


Dave Stephens
www.dave-stephens.com

Topic: Lyell's 2006 Camp (7 of 13)
Author: Frank Nelson
Date: Saturday, August 13, 2005 10:19 PM

Both Pete and I can probably be suckered into that if not just to get at Forbes (it'll beat a 30km approach). It is however completely up in the air with my schedule/school. I will have a better idea later in the winter.
Frank

Topic: Lyell's 2006 Camp (8 of 13)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Sunday, August 14, 2005 08:50 AM

I'd be lying if I said I wasn't intrigued by the idea, but like Frank I can't make solid plans yet. I would have to skip my annual canoe trip in order to afford it but it sounds like a good opportunity to try something a bit different.

I'll know more later this winter.

Vern Dewit
http://www.fresh-oxygen.com

Topic: Lyell's 2006 Camp (9 of 13)
Author: Kyle Oak
Date: Sunday, August 14, 2005 09:08 PM

Colin and myself would also be interested in a trip like this. Forbes is one that I'd really like to do sometime and although the long approach does kind of seem tempting, a helicopter would allow alot more time to bag other peaks! How many days do you figure you would plan for on a trip like this?

Kyle Oak

Topic: Lyell's 2006 Camp (10 of 13)
Author: Dave Stephens
Date: Monday, August 15, 2005 06:12 AM

To make the trip economical for helicopter fees, you have to go Saturday to Saturday. You drive to a staging area, and Don McTigh flies up from Golden. If you're the only group going that day, you have to pay for the flight from Golden to the staging area. It's very expensive. On Saturdays, Don is already up there for various other climbers at other nearby staging areas. That way, you split the cost of the "approach trip".


Dave Stephens
www.dave-stephens.com

Topic: Lyell's 2006 Camp (11 of 13)
Author: Dave Stephens
Date: Monday, August 15, 2005 08:00 PM

To make the trip economical for helicopter fees, you have to go Saturday to Saturday. You drive to a staging area, and Don McTigh flies up from Golden. If you're the only group going that day, you have to pay for the flight from Golden to the staging area. It's very expensive. On Saturdays, Don is already up there for various other climbers at other nearby staging areas. That way, you split the cost of the "approach trip".


Dave Stephens
www.dave-stephens.com

Topic: Lyell's 2006 Camp (12 of 13)
Author: Jp S
Date: Tuesday, September 13, 2005 11:56 PM

I was thinking of doing my 2006 week at Assiniboine (or maybe even Europe). But me and a few others might be interested. If it would work, I'll be in touch ... etc. etc.

FYI - I think I heard that they were decommissioning some of the logging roads soon.

jp

Topic: Lyell's 2006 Camp (13 of 13)
Author: Marta Wojnarowska
Date: Thursday, September 15, 2005 11:02 PM

Hi Dave:

We attempted Lyell's this year, late August, by hiking to the bottom of the Lyell's icefield. Unfortunately the weather never cleared -fog, whiteout, low clouds, so we ended up not venturing further.

We would be very much interested in joining the camp. We are not technical climbers, and there would be likely be enough of us (3-4 people) that we could travel in our own group at our pace on the ice field. We have done 45 peaks since January 2005 (4 11'000ers)

Marta & Chester

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (1 of 18)
Author: Mountain Ninja
Date: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 11:57 PM

That`s how I would describe my Lyells trip a week ago. The rain was coming down hard on the first day, which kind of ruined our plans. On the second day, the annoying wind was giving us hard time on the icefield. The third day was perfect until the smoke came in from the north and blocked the view. On the fourth day, we ran into a grizzly bear on the way back to the car. Fun, fun, fun...

Awesome trip in a remote location. Can`t wait to do the superlong approach to the Lyells and Mt. Forbes again!

Raff
http://members.shaw.ca/mountainmagic/

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (2 of 18)
Author: Bill Kerr
Date: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 08:44 AM

Great job Raff. You are having a really awesome year. The seven year record for all the 11,000 ft mtns should be on your mind.
Good pictures and notes as well.
Keep it up.

bill.kerr@shaw.ca
http://www.billkerr.ca

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (3 of 18)
Author: Jp S
Date: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 01:20 PM

Congrats on the Lyells - looks like fun. Although I'll take better weather and no grizzlies.

jp

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (4 of 18)
Author: Jason Wilcox
Date: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 04:40 PM

Hey, Bill is right Raff! You could beat the record at this rate. How many have you done this year already? It must be 12+. That's something to brag about!
Don't tell me Edith Cavell is going to be the unlucky #13 though.... if so, I'm not coming anymore... OK, I'm kidding. I'm always game for some good suffering on the side of some stupid mountain.

Jason

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (5 of 18)
Author: Dave Stephens
Date: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 05:19 PM

I think he has 15 of them this year. I read a posting somewhere (I forget where), but it was saying Edith Cavell area has received about 12 inches of snow up high. Maybe go after Harrison instead? It's still in season.


Dave Stephens
www.dave-stephens.com

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (6 of 18)
Author: Antri Zhu
Date: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 05:55 PM

Wow! Nice work Raff, 15 in one year is quite impressive. I don't think I even have 15 scrambles this year.

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (7 of 18)
Author: Mountain Ninja
Date: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 09:40 PM

Don`t worry Jason, Edith Cavell will be my 12th big peak this year (assuming we make the summit). I had a few failed attempts including Bryce and the Stutfields.

I talked to the Sunwapta Warden today and he told me that Edith Cavell is snowfree. I did not expect to hear that. I am looking forward to the climb!

Bill: This year my objective is to bag peaks that I wanted to climb for a long time. Some of them happen to be over 11,000 feet. I don`t know if I`m ever going to bag all of the 11,000-ers. Some of them are out of my league, like Mt. Alberta for example. The majority of them, however, are on my 'to do' list, so we`ll see how it goes... One thing I really like about them, is that they give me a chance to explore every corner of the Rockies.

Raff


Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (8 of 18)
Author: Bill Kerr
Date: Thursday, August 17, 2006 09:53 AM

Raff - good attitude and perspective. I like to do a peak or route more because I think I will enjoy it or it is interesting versus just because it is on some list.
That perspective will help later in life when you have less time(work, wife, kids, etc.) and a decision comes up like do you go do some interesting route in the Bugaboos, Selkirks, etc. or do you spend you weekend grovelling up some choss heap in the Rockies because it is on the list.

Mount Alberta - It will soon be in your league if you keep gaining experience at this rate.

bill.kerr@shaw.ca
http://www.billkerr.ca

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (9 of 18)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Thursday, August 17, 2006 01:14 PM

Hey! Don't insult choss heaps - that's where I play! ;-)

Also, isn't Mount Alberta only 5.6? ;-)

Vern Dewit
http://www.fresh-oxygen.com

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (10 of 18)
Author: Bill Kerr
Date: Thursday, August 17, 2006 03:28 PM

Vern,
No disrespect for choss heaps intended!

The rotten Rockies are fun, are close, have easy access, have good guide books and some routes even have not bad rock.

But! - there are lots of other things to do in the world - Many of which have better slog to scramble/climb ratios and some have better rock.

Time to start thinking about what you are going to do when you have done all of the Kane scrambles. How many do you want to do over?

Alberta - "only 5.6" - sounds easy doesn't it. ;-)
But in boots, with a pack and a rack, route finding, anchor building, big approach, weather, time, etc.

bill.kerr@shaw.ca
http://www.billkerr.ca

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (11 of 18)
Author: Dave Stephens
Date: Thursday, August 17, 2006 06:44 PM

You can emphasize the weather part of Alberta.



Dave Stephens
www.dave-stephens.com

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (12 of 18)
Author: Bill Kerr
Date: Friday, August 18, 2006 09:33 AM

Dave - maybe next year - Conditions is the biggest factor and the big ones always seem to have such small weather windows and the windows never seem to fit in busy schedules. No Robson attempt by us this year.

bill.kerr@shaw.ca
http://www.billkerr.ca

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (13 of 18)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Friday, August 18, 2006 02:42 PM

Trust me - I've been pondering the worth of completing the list just for the sake of a list and concluded it isn't the 'list' that keeps me going.

The 'list' is just part of the experience but for me it's all about getting out there and enjoying the wonderful environment we've been blessed with - the list just makes planning outings a lot easier.

Scrambling is fast and light and can be done solo, whereas more involved technical mountaineering and climbing can not be done that way and seem to take a lot more planning / effort outside of the actual climb.

I'm sure eventually I'll get into more technical stuff but for now I'm happy running up and down piles of loose, crappy choss! ;-)

Vern Dewit
http://www.fresh-oxygen.com

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (14 of 18)
Author: Dave Stephens
Date: Friday, August 18, 2006 06:37 PM

I find it much more rewarding to reach the summit of a technical climb because of what you put into it. A bit more planning, a lot more effort.... equals a lot more reward. Think about the difference of how you felt when you reached the summit of Stephen verse Heart.



Dave Stephens
www.dave-stephens.com

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (15 of 18)
Author: Jp S
Date: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 10:46 PM

Dave,

What do you think the distance and elevation gain is on Harrison? It is odd that the book says the trip takes 2-3 days, when it sounds like it takes one day (plus driving). I don't usually count driving in "trip time". Otherwise, the time for Lefroy if you are from Toronto would be 10 days at a good pace. Although for Harrison, it does sound like it will take the good portion of a day to drive to the trail head.

As for technical vs. non-technical, I am happy just to get out after sitting at a desk all week! Non-technical is nice, light and comparatively worry free. But technical does have some challenge to it. I doubt I'll ever be able to get out enough to feel confident in my technical skills and do really technical peaks.

jp

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (16 of 18)
Author: Dave Stephens
Date: Thursday, August 24, 2006 05:34 AM

Throughout Corbett's book, he's not consistent in the way he reports time. For the most part, he'll say how long the "trip" takes, and then say how long the "climb" takes. In a few cases, he just calls it "time" without breakdown.

For Harrison, Corbetts suggests a trip time of 2-3 days and a climb time of 8-10 hrs. I think trip time includes driving, and the climb time is "truck to truck". When I did Harrison, my trip time was 2 days, and my climb time was 7:52. I think that's inline with Corbett's suggested time. That's why I'm surprised about the Kitchener time of 26 hrs

As for distance and elevation gain, I'd say Harrison is about 4.5km each way and since the roadside camp is at 6600ft, and there is about a 100ft elevation loss as you go around some trees, total height gain is probably 4500ft.


Dave Stephens
www.dave-stephens.com

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (17 of 18)
Author: Jp S
Date: Thursday, August 24, 2006 04:26 PM

Thanks for the info. Sounds like a reasonably short trip. Looks like I posted this in the wrong place.

jp

Topic: Rain, Wind, Smoke and a Grizzly Bear (18 of 18)
Author: Dave Stephens
Date: Thursday, August 24, 2006 04:30 PM

Yeah - It's pretty short. It's one of those trips where you'll spend more time in the car than on the mountain.



Dave Stephens
www.dave-stephens.com