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Topic "Bugaboo epic (1 of 7)" started by Kevin Papke on Aug-28-2008

Topic: Bugaboo epic (1 of 7)
Author: Kevin Papke
Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008 07:27 PM

Heard from the news that 4 climbers were hung up on bugaboo Spire and just got off today. A party of 4 supposedly climbed the peak, from which route I do not know. Then a storm hit and two days of freezing was endured. At one point a rescue helo was sent but "a mix up in hand signals" sent the helo home without picking up the climbers. Finally two were able to get down safely and report the incident and another rescue was successfully completed.
No real facts here just another case of terrible reporting, it makes me wonder how often the media skips the facts and ends up creating a story all on there own. This is probably true with every story they report, ie.....royalty's in the oil industry and any other political topic they care to twist.
I am curious as to what really happened and why, and the conditions of the 4 individuals involved.

Topic: Bugaboo epic (2 of 7)
Author: Sandra Mcguinness
Date: Thursday, August 28, 2008 08:01 PM

Go to the MCR reports and take a look at Tuesday 26th August Bugaboos - a little bit of fiddling to get Marc Ledgwick's photo to open, but it certainly looks like someone was holed up in that snowbank.

Topic: Bugaboo epic (3 of 7)
Author: Mike Fisher
Date: Friday, August 29, 2008 07:22 AM

I heard this report yesterday too and did a little digging:


Sounds like all the climbers are going to be fine.

Topic: Bugaboo epic (4 of 7)
Author: Kevin Papke
Date: Friday, August 29, 2008 08:30 AM

Thanks Mike, bloody amazing that the press could not have received such info, apparently it was readily available. I'm surprised this didn't have a "global warming" twist to the story.
Anyways looks like they got stuck descending past the Gendarme which is the crux of the Conrad Kain Route. It was once regarded as the hardest rock climb in North America (5.6/5.7).
Yamnuska climbing school has an excellent coarse each summer up in the bugs, you will get to climb many peaks like the Bugaboo, pigeon (5.4) and the Howsers (1100ft). Its really a fantastic coarse, great for learning rope techniques and procedures.

Topic: Bugaboo epic (5 of 7)
Author: Ken Takabe
Date: Saturday, August 30, 2008 10:35 AM

I just found out that one of the four members from the Bugs episode is an old ice climbing partner of mine from Toronto. Just saw his short summary of events on his Facebook page. Small world!

Topic: Bugaboo epic (6 of 7)
Author: Kevin Papke
Date: Sunday, August 31, 2008 10:50 AM

Hi Ken, hope your buddy is all right. Any chance we can catch is version of the story. Sounds like quite the epic but they obviously had there wits about them,
It would make an interesting read and may be helpful to the rest of us.

Topic: Bugaboo epic (7 of 7)
Author: Ken Takabe
Date: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 12:23 AM

My friend didn't post much in terms of technical details such as the rappel :

Although the details are not quite correct, the RCMP officer not being a climber got it fairly close. I and three friends were descending from Bugaboo NE ridge when we got benighted. A storm then blew in and through a synergy of circumstances, I spent two very cold and wet nights above 10,000 ft before being plucked from the mountain in a very small window of opportunity. Had it not been then, another 2 - 4 days would have passed. Lost body parts or death could have been the end result but fortunately only aches and pains exist. A wrong choice of descent, and a lot of right decisions, along with a fantastic rescue effort means we got away with another campfire story to tell.
Thanks to all that helped.