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Topic "More Lady Mac ESE Ridge (1 of 6)" started by Parry Loeffler on Jul-22-2009
Topic "Lady MacDonald e-SE ridge (1 of 13)" started by Kevin Papke on May-29-2009

Topic: Lady MacDonald e-SE ridge (1 of 13)
Author: Kevin Papke
Date: Friday, May 29, 2009 08:34 PM

What a great day. Very Hot and sunny, until a forest fire in a valley south of Canmore started and grew.
With Mr Bill Kerr we climbed the E/SE ridge on Lady Mac and it has to be on everyone's todo list.
Starts off as hike up cougar Creek for an hour, then a 500m slog up the dirty slopes of the mountain.
These slopes become a bit of a ridge and in another hour or so your at a headwall where a 30+m 5.3-5.4 rock band has to be surmounted.
Unfortunately we couldn't find the "easy way up" (supposed to be a BIG cairn and possibly a tarp)
We ended up on a short 5.5 route that thanks to a little pro went OK.
Not sure of where we were, and what lies ahead we short roped for another hour or so?
a long ways. That brought us to a few cairns where we now found the infamous 2nd step.
The 2nd step, 30m requires a lay-back with one hand under and behind an obvious crack.
With that move the rest becomes easier and soon the actual ridge is attained.
Now the real fun begins. Lots of 5.0 moves, lots of bolts for protection and LOTS OF EXPOSURE.
This is the rest of the climb. One tower that is taken directly was my favorite. Its got a bolt at the base and went about 5.2ish. Easier ground and the rope away for a while.
We went faster here.
Until another huge tower/15m headwall that looked Jason wilcox-ish. (some people following said it was about 5.7.
Bill and I followed the trail and deep snow prints in a long traverse to the right, then up a short band and easier traverse left. It was exposed and Bill started his first avalanche of the year.
Luckily he was not in it.
Back on the ridge for easier but still very exposed knife edge ridge walking and climbing.
Finally the last step which was easiest and now the long grunt home.
Ridge summits about 50m below the first false summit above the tea house.
Took us 8 hrs with little rest to top out.
An ice ax is recommended as well as a few bigger stoppers and friends.
The rock is GREAT!
If any one wants any more info please contact me, and soon Bill will post pictures.
Iam glad we did it. Thanks for the day Bill.

Topic: Lady MacDonald e-SE ridge (2 of 13)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Friday, May 29, 2009 08:36 PM

Sounds like a great outing Kev! Looking forward to Bill's report / pics.

Vern Dewit
http://www.explor8ion.com
http://verndewit.com/

Topic: Lady MacDonald e-SE ridge (3 of 13)
Author: Kevin Papke
Date: Saturday, May 30, 2009 09:46 AM

Thanks Vern. Ya this was a great route. More involved than the Goat Traverse or Edith SE Ridge. I think you'll love it.
Goat traverse should be good in a few weeks.
Just waiting on the first and last steps to clear of snow.

Topic: Lady MacDonald e-SE ridge (4 of 13)
Author: Ken Takabe
Date: Saturday, May 30, 2009 11:05 AM

Nice work!

I've been thinking about doing the S Ridge of Lorette for some time but this route looks a lot more interesting. It doesn't involve a creek crossing and the trailhead is only 5min away. I'll give it a shot for sure.

BTW, did you know that Yam has a trad traverse? It's a 82 pitch 2.8km rock route which goes from the west end to the east. :)

Topic: Lady MacDonald e-SE ridge (5 of 13)
Author: Bill Kerr
Date: Sunday, May 31, 2009 12:33 AM

This was a great must do trip for rock ridge lovers and I am glad Kevin suggested it(and led the hard parts). Pictures up at the website with some trip report comments on each pic.

Ken - it is more complicated and longer than Lorette. Lorette is fun but it only has 2-3 short 5.4 sections. This has more rock and the climbing pieces are longer.
Lots of elevation gain though so it does have lots of slogging as well.


bill.kerr@shaw.ca
http://www.billkerr.ca

Topic: Lady MacDonald e-SE ridge (6 of 13)
Author: Bill Kerr
Date: Sunday, May 31, 2009 09:49 AM

Added Kevin's pictures - some really good ones.

Ticks - pulled them off our arms, necks, etc
Killed them in the parking lot and floor of the garage where my pack and clothes were quarantined.


bill.kerr@shaw.ca
http://www.billkerr.ca

Topic: Lady MacDonald e-SE ridge (7 of 13)
Author: Ken Takabe
Date: Sunday, May 31, 2009 01:27 PM

Nice pics!

I'm surprised you encountered some ticks on the way up. I've hiked up Lady Mac several times (including yesterday) and I've never seen a single one.

Did you guys lie down and take a nap in the meadows? :)

Topic: Lady MacDonald e-SE ridge (8 of 13)
Author: Bill Kerr
Date: Sunday, May 31, 2009 02:51 PM

Must be more sheep on the backside. We always tried to sit on rock but there are lots of trees to brush up against.


bill.kerr@shaw.ca
http://www.billkerr.ca

Topic: Lady MacDonald e-SE ridge (9 of 13)
Author: Wietse Bylsma
Date: Sunday, May 31, 2009 05:43 PM

Nice pics and great trip...talked to Kev yesterday and he was still in pain of all the hard work.

Ticks - Everybody on the Livingstone trip had several (some had over 10) except me...must be my blood that they don't like.

Wietse Bylsma
http://canada4u.zenfolio.com

Topic: Lady MacDonald e-SE ridge (10 of 13)
Author: Parry Loeffler
Date: Monday, June 01, 2009 12:22 PM

Hey guys, how are the half-dozen creek crossings right now?

Parry

Topic: Lady MacDonald e-SE ridge (11 of 13)
Author: Bill Kerr
Date: Monday, June 01, 2009 01:11 PM

Right now the creek is running a little higher than might expect even very early in the day and is 2 - 3 feet deep in spots. Most crossings you could find a spot to hop from big rock to big rock or log but some rocks had 3 - 6 inches of water running over them so you do get wet even if you don't slip off. It adds 15- 20 min to the approach. A pair of sandals/water shoes might work but you would have to hike in them as it is not worth changing back and forth. The slog uphill is in the morning sun - hot and dry so you do dry out quickly.
Enjoy.

bill.kerr@shaw.ca
http://www.billkerr.ca

Topic: Lady MacDonald e-SE ridge (12 of 13)
Author: Kevin Papke
Date: Monday, June 01, 2009 09:01 PM

Take crocks Perry. Beware that snow about 3/4 the way up. That little 5.7 that the other group went head on looked harder to both of us.
Don't be afraid to call us for some details. Might save you an hour or so.
As for the ticks Wietse........its all in the coffee.

Topic: Lady MacDonald e-SE ridge (13 of 13)
Author: Mike Warren
Date: Tuesday, June 09, 2009 11:33 AM

On 5/30/2009 11:05:00 AM, Ken Takabe wrote:

>I've been thinking about doing
>the S Ridge of Lorette for
>some time but this route looks
>a lot more interesting.

I agree; there is more fun ridge climbing/scrambling on ESE Lady Mac than Lorette; much of the ridge on Lorette is really wide...

Topic: More Lady Mac ESE Ridge (1 of 6)
Author: Parry Loeffler
Date: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 04:03 PM

Have had this route on the radar for years. Attempted it about 5 years ago but got shut down with rain.

Bill's success got me revved up again and this past weekend the cards fell into place. This time the weather was great and Bill's beta is great.

Really nice route despite the slog on the lower part.

Only problem on the route can be seen below... what's wrong with the picture?






Here are the rest of my photos:

http://picasaweb.google.ca/summitguy/20090719LadyMacDonaldESERidge#


Parry

Topic: More Lady Mac ESE Ridge (2 of 6)
Author: Bill Kerr
Date: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 04:45 PM

Good job guys.

I guess if you carry the pro then you have to use it/justify it versus using the fixed bolts!


bill.kerr@shaw.ca
http://www.billkerr.ca

Topic: More Lady Mac ESE Ridge (3 of 6)
Author: Jp S
Date: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 05:34 PM

Nice.

Please no bolting ethics discussions. There is an entire canadian webboard dedicated to that subject. ;-)

jp

Topic: More Lady Mac ESE Ridge (4 of 6)
Author: Bill Kerr
Date: Thursday, July 23, 2009 08:30 PM

Parry - I forgot to ask where you guys went up on the first rockband since we obviously missed the easy way up?


bill.kerr@shaw.ca
http://www.billkerr.ca

Topic: More Lady Mac ESE Ridge (5 of 6)
Author: Parry Loeffler
Date: Sunday, July 26, 2009 09:55 PM

Bill,

For the first rockband we went up and right... there was a worn path also leading down and left, likely beaten by confused people looking for the "down and left" route which I think is actually your layback crack on the NEXT rockband higher up... they're getting a bit ahead of themselves.

So, at the first band we hunted for a route up and right... T

Then on the second rockband we again went up and right until we found a way to breach the first half of it, then hit a solid wall halfway up with a large cairn at its base... here we went "down and left" to another big carin and your layback crack...

Parry


Topic: More Lady Mac ESE Ridge (6 of 6)
Author: Kevin Papke
Date: Sunday, August 02, 2009 02:25 PM

I told Bill to bring his GPS. Ha ha.
That 1st pitch Bill and I did was the hardest and obviously its avoidable.
also I like the bolts. Makes for great time saving and just run on past them without setting up an anchor and back up.
Great job Perry, you are having a good summer.
You should be getting old enough now to hang with Bill, Scott and I.