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Topic "The week of the Kings (1 of 8)" started by Mountain Ninja on Sep-18-2007

Topic: The week of the Kings (1 of 8)
Author: Mountain Ninja
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 12:51 AM

Here are a few tips for the two Kevins on Mt. King Edward and Mt. King George. They have some unfinished business with those two spectacular peaks. Let me start with King Eddy. First of all, take your old car on this trip. The last few kilometers of the Bush River Road is rough and narrow with trees on both sides. Your car will not look very pretty after this road trip. There`s a good log bridge now, so crossing the river is not an issue anymore. Warning: Beware of a rich abundance of berries on the way to King Edward, if you attempt it in September. It will slow you down. We spent over an hour picking and eating the berries. They were soooo good. Camp close to the toe of the glacier. You should be able to find a good water source there. For the climb, bring a set of cams, a few nuts and ice screws. Be extra cautious when crossing the glacier. There are many big holes on it and most of them are hidden. I recommend you gain the south slopes right away, instead of traversing to the gentler slabs on the far left. Climb the crest of the southeast ridge. It`s steep and exposed, but offers good climbing. We only pitched out one section. You`ll need a couple of nuts and a piton for the rappel anchor here. The traverse below the summit block is not a walk in the park. It`s very exposed, the ledge is narrow, downsloping and covered with snow, which can make the traverse impossible in certain conditions. There`s also a short section of 45 degree ice that has to be traversed. You will appreciate having a second ice tool. We protected the traverse with cams and ice screws. After you gain the north face, you kick steps up the steep snow and then start climbing very loose rock to gain the summit ridge. The rock we climbed was about 5.4. The views from the summit were magnificent. Mt. King Eddy is surrounded by big and remote icefields. We did three rappels to get down the mountain. One 60 meter rope is sufficient for this climb.

Mr. Barton, here`s some beta on Mt. King George for you. Cross the bridge (yes, there`s a nice bridge now), and follow the trail along Fynn Creek. This trail will take you to the meadows below Mt. Princess Mary. When Mt. Prince Albert finally comes into view, go left, cross the river and traverse west towards the headwall. The bivy is on top of this headwall. Ascend the steep tree slope to the right of the waterfall and you`re there! I found this approach pretty straightforward as long as you pay attention. It shouldn`t take you more than 6 hours to get to the camp. As for the climb, we did not follow Bill Corbett`s route description. After we gained the hanging glacier, we climbed ice to a flat spot below a big crevasse. Bring at least 6 ice screws for this. This hanging glacier is heavily crevassed and very steep. Instead of ascending the upper part of this glacier, we decided to try a different route. We traversed across the glacier to a col, where we gained the west ridge. The only obstacle on the way to the col was a bergschrund, which was easily negotiated. We just walked into it and then climbed out of it on the other side. We took our crampons off, and climbed the west ridge directly to the summit. It was mostly 4th class rock with a couple of difficult moves. This route is safer and more efficient than the route described by Bill in his book.

If you guys or anybody else on this board have any questions about these peaks, don`t hesitate to contact me. I can provide more detailed information complete with pictures.

Climbing the lower rockband on Mt. King Edward.

The sexy Mt. Columbia. I love this mountain!

The rarely seen west face of Mt. Alberta.

Mt. Bryce beautiful as always.

We traversed this glacier to the col, where we gained the west ridge.

Mt. Joffre, Cordonnier and Warrior Mtn. as seen from the west.

The bergschrund on Mt. King George.

Topic: The week of the Kings (2 of 8)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 07:48 AM

Wow! Good trip Raff - and thanks for the beta. I'm sure it will come in handy some day... :-)

Vern Dewit

Topic: The week of the Kings (3 of 8)
Author: Kevin Barton
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 08:04 AM


Congrats on two great peaks. Thanks for the beta on the approach. Yeah, Andrew and I will have to go back to King George, sooner than later.

Sounds like you had a great week off work.

Good job at ticking off those 11,000'ers.


Kevin B.

Topic: The week of the Kings (4 of 8)
Author: Bill Kerr
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 09:05 AM

Good job Raff. Good beta on the climbs.

You need to get a picture site set up so we can enjoy all the pictures!


Topic: The week of the Kings (5 of 8)
Author: Kevin Papke
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 09:47 AM

Thanks Raff. Always appreciate your reports.
Figure we'll get after King Eddy next summer.
Kevin B you are welcome to join us. According to Dan Ronski King Edward would be easier in August with no new snow to hide the traps. I like the idea of the ridge with better rock.
I really like the idea of the bridge. That river almost did me in.
Thanks again to Dan and Roy for saving my ass.
Whats next Raff?

Topic: The week of the Kings (6 of 8)
Author: Mountain Ninja
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 06:43 PM

I really liked those two peaks. They give you a true feeling of remoteness and a taste of pure canadian wilderness. You will not see any crowds there, guaranteed!

Kevin, the hidden crevasses weren`t really a problem on the Eddy glacier. I used my hiking pole to detect crevasses and it worked really well. Haven`t even stepped in one, even though it was like walking on the minefield.

My next objective is the north face of Moose Mountain. I`ve been waiting for the right conditions for months now... Hopefully the weather will cooperate this weekend...

Topic: The week of the Kings (7 of 8)
Author: Jason Wilcox
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 07:19 PM

Moose Mtn. HAHAHA

Jason Wilcox

Topic: The week of the Kings (8 of 8)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 08:04 PM

I wondered if he was serious... ;-)

Vern Dewit