Here are a few tips for the two Kevins on Mt. King Edward and Mt. King George. They have some unfinished business with those two spectacular peaks. Let me start with King Eddy. First of all, take your old car on this trip. The last few kilometers of the Bush River Road is rough and narrow with trees on both sides. Your car will not look very pretty after this road trip. There`s a good log bridge now, so crossing the river is not an issue anymore. Warning: Beware of a rich abundance of berries on the way to King Edward, if you attempt it in September. It will slow you down. We spent over an hour picking and eating the berries. They were soooo good. Camp close to the toe of the glacier. You should be able to find a good water source there. For the climb, bring a set of cams, a few nuts and ice screws. Be extra cautious when crossing the glacier. There are many big holes on it and most of them are hidden. I recommend you gain the south slopes right away, instead of traversing to the gentler slabs on the far left. Climb the crest of the southeast ridge. It`s steep and exposed, but offers good climbing. We only pitched out one section. You`ll need a couple of nuts and a piton for the rappel anchor here. The traverse below the summit block is not a walk in the park. It`s very exposed, the ledge is narrow, downsloping and covered with snow, which can make the traverse impossible in certain conditions. There`s also a short section of 45 degree ice that has to be traversed. You will appreciate having a second ice tool. We protected the traverse with cams and ice screws. After you gain the north face, you kick steps up the steep snow and then start climbing very loose rock to gain the summit ridge. The rock we climbed was about 5.4. The views from the summit were magnificent. Mt. King Eddy is surrounded by big and remote icefields. We did three rappels to get down the mountain. One 60 meter rope is sufficient for this climb.
Mr. Barton, here`s some beta on Mt. King George for you. Cross the bridge (yes, there`s a nice bridge now), and follow the trail along Fynn Creek. This trail will take you to the meadows below Mt. Princess Mary. When Mt. Prince Albert finally comes into view, go left, cross the river and traverse west towards the headwall. The bivy is on top of this headwall. Ascend the steep tree slope to the right of the waterfall and you`re there! I found this approach pretty straightforward as long as you pay attention. It shouldn`t take you more than 6 hours to get to the camp. As for the climb, we did not follow Bill Corbett`s route description. After we gained the hanging glacier, we climbed ice to a flat spot below a big crevasse. Bring at least 6 ice screws for this. This hanging glacier is heavily crevassed and very steep. Instead of ascending the upper part of this glacier, we decided to try a different route. We traversed across the glacier to a col, where we gained the west ridge. The only obstacle on the way to the col was a bergschrund, which was easily negotiated. We just walked into it and then climbed out of it on the other side. We took our crampons off, and climbed the west ridge directly to the summit. It was mostly 4th class rock with a couple of difficult moves. This route is safer and more efficient than the route described by Bill in his book.
If you guys or anybody else on this board have any questions about these peaks, don`t hesitate to contact me. I can provide more detailed information complete with pictures.
Climbing the lower rockband on Mt. King Edward.
The sexy Mt. Columbia. I love this mountain!
The rarely seen west face of Mt. Alberta.
Mt. Bryce beautiful as always.
We traversed this glacier to the col, where we gained the west ridge.
Mt. Joffre, Cordonnier and Warrior Mtn. as seen from the west.
The bergschrund on Mt. King George.