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Topic "Coire Dubh Integral (1 of 9)" started by Scott Berry on Jan-10-2010

Topic: Coire Dubh Integral (1 of 9)
Author: Scott Berry
Date: Sunday, January 10, 2010 09:15 PM

Some my question this posting as more for the ice climbing section but it felt more alpine in nature, to me.

We (partner Matt Hamilton and I) had a brilliant day on Saturday on this climb.

We were walking by 7:30 and climbing by 8:45. Amazingly warm and the ice was quite plastic. Upper Rock pitches were "interesting" I have not been climbing too much 5.7 in crampons lately but managed to dispatch with the pitches fairly quickly. The Crux ice pitch was enjoyable on the steeper right side. We only belayed 3 pitches.

The real crux was hitting the ridge which is often often described as the "windiest place on Earth". It did not disappoint.

Climbing over Loder and Door Jamb presented some challenging windy terrain on sharp edged limestone in places.

definately one I would repeat and try some alternative upper rock lines.

Car to car was 8 hours (4.5 climbing the route).
Pictures to come

Topic: Here are the pics (2 of 9)
Author: Scott Berry
Date: Monday, January 11, 2010 10:43 PM



http://picasaweb.google.com/icerocksnow/CoireDubhIntegral#

Topic: Here are the pics (3 of 9)
Author: Bill Kerr
Date: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 10:56 AM

That looks like fun - good pics.


bill.kerr@shaw.ca
http://www.billkerr.ca

Topic: Here are the pics (4 of 9)
Author: Ferenc Jacso
Date: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 05:50 PM

It does look like fun. Congrats!
I only wonder where this odd name might come from...

Topic: Coire Dubh Integral (5 of 9)
Author: Vern Dewit
Date: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 08:49 PM

Nice pics! Looks like a good day out.

Vern Dewit
http://www.explor8ion.com
http://verndewit.com/

Topic: Coire Dubh Integral (6 of 9)
Author: Kevin Papke
Date: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 09:05 AM

Good work Scott, it is definitely more Alpine in nature. Very surprising how a guy can have such a remote high alpine feeling and be so close to the car. When we did the route, a loooong time ago we had to take a direct/left handish finish to bypass a party of 3 on the route.
When we topped out (no wind) we inquired if they needed any help. (it was dark out already). They said they were fine but when we were back at our vehicle we looked to see if we could spot the other party.
Could spot em. Left a note on there car and found out later the next day they were be-nighted. It was -30 that night.
Now they had an adventure.

Topic: Coire Dubh Integral (7 of 9)
Author: Scott Berry
Date: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 12:42 AM

Nothing like those -30 unplanned bivies. I once spent the night on the summit of Door Jamb in February, but it was by choice.

I think I know that left variation you are talking about. It is an open book corner. If it is the same one, we looked at, but decided on the more northerly exit.

I would do this one again in a heart beat.

Topic: Coire Dubh Integral (8 of 9)
Author: Scott Berry
Date: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 12:50 AM

Ferenc, I could not find the definition, other than Dubh appears to be a large craggy mountain.

It always sounded Gaelic to me and appropriate because of the often harsh conditions (wind), that one is subject to on Loder peak. I think it was the Scottish blood in me that used to drive me to seek such conditions.

Topic: Coire Dubh Integral (9 of 9)
Author: Scott Berry
Date: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 01:05 AM

This is a little video I took as we were exiting through the upper headwall.




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2d58RfOICV4