Vaux, Mount


Trip Details
Mountain Range: 
Mountain Subrange: 
Attained Summit?: 
Trip Date: 
Friday, September 9, 2011
Summit Elevation (m): 
Summit Elevation (ft): 
Elevation Gain (m): 
Round Trip Time: 
Total Distance (km): 
Difficulty Notes: 

A fine line between climbing and scrambling near the summit ridge. You must be comfortable soloing very loose and steep terrain to climb Vaux safely.

Trip Report

On Friday, September 09 2011 I joined Sonny Bou for a scramble up Mount Vaux in Yoho National Park. Mount Vaux is not your everyday scrambling objective. There are a few reasons for this;


  1. No officially published route (surprising given it's stature and location).
  2. It's a huge objective both in stature (over 2200 meters or  7260 feet of elevation gain) and in looseness.
  3. It's under the magical 11,000 foot mark by a few hundred feet and isn't deemed 'worthy' by much of the climbing community.


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This is very, very inspiring. Well done, guys!
I have been eying these gigantic peaks in Yoho for a few years now, on repeat trips to the Rockies. As an experienced scrambler - having summited the likes of Mt. Temple, Chephren, Pilot Mountain, Mount Wilcox and Mt. Baldy, just to name a few - and an occasional mountaineer on 'easier' climbs such as the President, this kind of objective really appeals to me. Finding a route that's so straight forward and aesthetic, and doable without the use of rope (both ways)...not easy. Question: the conditions seem to be best at the very end of summer, correct? Would you ever go if there had been more snow/ice in the couloir?

Thanks Jan! I would go with limited snow in the gully (since it's there all year anyway), but I would strongly advise against ascending Vaux with snow / ice on the upper crux head wall. You should be able to see the head wall with a zoom lens or binoculars from the bottom, so that's good! :)

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