Edward Peak (Lyell II)


Trip Details
Mountain Range: 
Mountain Subrange: 
Attained Summit?: 
Trip Date: 
Friday, June 26, 2015 to Monday, June 29, 2015
Summit Elevation (m): 
Summit Elevation (ft): 
Elevation Gain (m): 
Round Trip Time: 
Total Distance (km): 
Quick 'n Easy Rating: 
Class 1 : you fall, you're stupid
Difficulty Notes: 

Glacier travel in a very remote area of the Rockies. The bergschrund is opening between Lyell I and II making things more interesting.

Trip Report

Next to Ernest Peak, Edward (Lyell II) was pretty darn tame. Other than the fact that the height gains and distances were starting to add up and the day was getting long, there were absolutely no difficulties getting to the summit of the purported, but debatable of the highest of the Lyells. The views were not much less spectacular than from Ernest Peak but we didn't linger too long at the top. We still had Rudolph (Lyell I) to do, not to forget the long trudge back to the Lyell Hut and the shadows were definitely lengthening.


Looking back at the intimidating track up the east / north aspect of Ernest Peak. Note our tracks going over the 'schrund and continuing up the east ridge above.

We start the easy trudge up Edward Peak on pretty mushy snow.

Looking back over our tracks up Ernest Peak at right with Christian and Walter at center. 

Doing a switchback to ease the pain a bit.

Incredible views south (l) west (c) and north (r) include, Mount Forbes, Mons Peak, Christian, Rostrum, Walter, Kinbasket Lake, Ernest Peak, Oppy, Alexandra, Bryce, Columbia, Terrace, Snow Dome and many others. 

An amazing late evening panorama looking down the main Lyell Icefield towards Mount Forbes (L) and the Mons Icefield at right. 

Ernest Peak looks incredible from Edward - note our tracks up the east ridge. I hate to say it but Ernest certainly looks higher at its far end in this view from the summit of Edward Peak.

An immense panorama looking north (l) and east (r) including King Edward, Columbia, South Twin, North Twin, Alberta, Castleguard, Snow Dome, Andromeda, Terrace, Athabasca, Brazeau, Saskatchewan and Cirrus Mountain (L to R). 

I love the deep greens on the ridge separating the headwaters of the Alexandra River at bottom left of the ridge and the Castleguard River at center to the right of it. Looming in the background are familiar giants including (L to R), Mount Bryce, King Edward, Mount Columbia, South Twin, North Twin, Mount Alberta, Stutfield, Kitchener, Snow DomeAndrolumbia, Andromeda, Terrace and Athabasca. Castleguard Peak at the head of the Castleguard River drainage.

Farbus in the foreground with Oppy. Alexandra at center with Tsar, Clemenceau and Bryce at distant background.

Looking east over Rudolph Peak - our next destination - with peaks from Saskatchewan to Amery to Forbes in the distance. 

The entire main Lyell Icefield stretches out towards the Forbes and Mons Glaciers and summits. Arctomys at mid left and Christian Peak at mid right. 

Mount Forbes with Outram at left and Hector visible at center distance.

Looking towards the line of Sarbach, Kaufmann, Epaulette, White Pyramid, Chephren and Howse. The Glacier Lake / River is hidden behind Arctomys ridge at center bottom.

Cline and Wilson show up across a hidden hwy #93 to the east.

Mount Saskatchewan is a near-11,000er at foreground center with Mount BrazeauMount Poboktan, Cirrus and Stewart showing up at distance.

Looking through the Walter / Ernest col towards Kinbasket Lake. The 5.4 climbing route up the north ridge of Walter Peak is clearly visible over a gaping 'schrund at bottom left.

Descending towards Lyell I - Rudolph Peak


I am of the opinion that Ernest Peak is either higher or the same height as Edward. Both of these peaks have amazing views - you really don't want to summit in a whiteout if you have a choice. I would highly recommend doing both peaks since they're so close together anyway. Do Ernest, as the tougher one, first and then enjoy a leisurely stroll over the next two. Bagging these three 11,000ers together is a no-brainer after the immense work and planning that goes into getting yourself all the way the heck out here. 

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