Alexandra, Mount


Trip Details
Mountain Range: 
Mountain Subrange: 
Attained Summit?: 
Trip Date: 
Friday, September 26, 2014 to Sunday, September 28, 2014
Summit Elevation (m): 
Summit Elevation (ft): 
Elevation Gain (m): 
Total Distance (km): 
Quick 'n Easy Rating: 
Class 4 : you fall, you are almost dead
Difficulty Notes: 

Long, complicated approach via South Rice Brook. Scrambling up cliffs to 5.2 crux rock step. Glacier travel with huge crevasses and snow, ice or rock scramble to summit.


Trip Report

Every once in a while I do a mountain trip that feels like it redefines my approach to climbing, skiing or hiking or whatever activity I happen to be doing at the time. This past weekend I experienced such an event on Mount Alexandra, deep in the heart of the Alexandra River Valley near the headwaters of the Saskatchewan and Columbia Rivers. Here's some words that come to mind from the past few days; bushwhack, lost, confused, rain, sun, clouds, snow, cold, warm, blue sky, crevasses, snow, ice, rock, streams, lakes, boulders, exposure, waterfalls, mountain goat, exhaustion, blisters, bruises, alders, devil's club, slabs, fall colors, bear, rough roads


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I've assembled a team for next summer to climb Mt Alexandra, fingers crossed we'll follow suit your southerly egress for approach also and eventually avoid the bush via this highline route. Dude, this trip report deserves a Pulitzer Prize!!

Right on man. One of my favorite trips in the Rockies for sure. One recommendation is to park at the Bryce parking lot, rather than continue driving up the logging road like we did. It's not really worth it and turning around can be a bugger if you go too far by accident! :) Here's hoping you get good weather and a good team. Let me know when you're going - who knows? I might tag along and bag a few other peaks in the area...

All my friends are highly experienced mountaineers, will let them know about the details you've mentioned. Like I've told them, this can be a multiple peak trip, and we could split the groups and camp close by or something like that.

Man, after re-reading your trip report, how narrow the roads are and prone to being blocked by slides, with my ram 1500 don't know if I stand a chance to make it through. Which is a shame because this mountain is the most adventure I am eyeing for a while. And that's just the driving part...

LOL. I'm sure you'll be just fine - it all depends on your experience with such roads. If you grew up in a town like Golden, BC this is a normal approach road. For me it was a bit more than that! I'd recommend parking before the narrow traverse and simply hike the extra few KM's or bring bikes and just bike the Rice Brook part.

Cheers for that. Not much experience with the narrow roads as of now,My friend Attila scratched one tire on the way to Harrison on the last narrow road some fallen cut tree on the side. I have hope then, as you suggest. Will hopefully dedicate a good part of August in this area - pure adventure. Will keep you posted last year my hiking buddies give me a cold shoulder they're "I choose the mountain " kind of guys :). This year will be different. Just need committed partners.

Partners are the hardest part of climbing more remote mountains. You need to find someone with the same passion and willingness for last minute adjustments and extended periods of time off. Far harder than actually climbing the dang mountain! It's one of the main reasons I do so much solo adventuring. It's just easier.

The crevasses, bears are 2 or the main issues here. Not fun to encounter either of those solo...I am still in disbelief that Nathan Bernadet climbed all 11,000ers solo?! That must be something else, for sure. That's a super-achievement worthy of Piolet D'or in my book, for sure. Well, time will tell how things will develop, this area like I've said is my first choice when it comes to adventure, second to none. Who knows, I may even decide to climb other peaks in the area, some day. Cheers

Crevasses are certainly a worthy concern. wink Let m know when ur thinking of heading in there. There are certainly some more peaks back there that I'm interested in.

We can drive both our vehicles, to have a back up or something like that. Will keep in touch, via Facebook or here, easy to get a hold of each other. I want to climb anything I get a chance in that area, no doubt. You name it, I'm up for it. Cheers

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